Want to discover the pink granite coast in the Côtes d’Armor? Discover our cycling and walking itinerary along one of Brittany’s most beautiful coasts.
Brittany is one of France’s favorite regions, and you only have to visit once to understand why! Here, windswept and tidal landscapes offer sumptuous color palettes magnified by natural light.
We come to Brittany for the invigorating, iodized air, the seafood, the buckwheat cakes, the scenery, but above all for the kindness and friendliness of the Breton people. Well, between you and me, I’m not going for a swim! How can a southerner swim in such cold water?
The Breton coast has a variety of landscapes to offer, and it’s only a 4-hour train ride from Paris that we’re taking you for a weekend to discover a slice of the Armor coast on the famous pink granite coast. From Lannion to Perros Guirrec by the way Trebeurden, the 7 islands archipelago, Ploumanach and its atypical rock formations, we criss-crossed this coastline for 2 days on electric bikes. Discover a jewel of our national heritage.
We decided to discover the place in Vélek’tro, these new eco-friendly electric bikes. A super-pleasant alternative under these blue skies, non-polluting, silent and more economical. If you only have 2 days to spare, we recommend doing the first part of Lannion to Ile grande on the day starting early and the second loop of Tregastel to Perros-Guirec, the next day.
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| SITUATION ON THE COTE DE GRANIT ROSE
The Côte de Granit rose is located in the Côtes d’Armor department, and is surely one of Brittany’s best-known spots (Antoine has been telling me about it for ages!).
Did you know? The coast is 10km long, stretching from the small village of Perros Guirec to the outskirts of Trébeurden. It’s easily recognizable by the orange-pink granite rocks that give it such charm! In reality, the stone isn’t exactly rosy. When you visit this coastline in the sunshine, it’s a brown hue tending slightly towards pink.
1 | LANNION
Notre passage à Lannion fut furtif mais nous a permis d’avoir une première impression de cette petite ville de 20 000 habitants. Lannion est la porte d’entrée sur la Côte de Granit Rose. Pour être honnête, ce n’est pas une ville très vivante, en tout cas le soir. Cependant, vous y trouverez un style architectural très breton avec des ruelles piétonnes entourées de belles bâtisses comme la rue Saint Malo, de très jolies vielles maisons à colombage avec leurs toits en ardoise situées sur la place du générale Leclerc, qui nous rappellent le passé médiéval de la ville ainsi que des maisons en pierre plus récentes mais très typiques des Côtes d’Armor. Lannion s’anime toutefois l’été, avec le flux touristique et des animations telle que “les tardives“, un festival de musique accompagné de contes et danses. La culture bretonne est bel et bien présente au cœur du Trégor.
Autre intérêt, l’église de la Trinité et les 140 marches de l’escalier lui donnant accès dans le quartier de Brelevenez perché sur les hauteurs de la ville. Ne le manquez pas car le panorama est somptueux! L’ascension jusqu’à l’Eglise de la Trinité se fait doucement et facilement, le temps pour nous de flâner et de prendre quelques photos des hortensias et des maisons.
Pour dîner, allez à la crêperie du “Moulin vert” en plein centre, pour goûter aux délicieuses galettes accompagnées d’une bolée de cidre, une adresse recommandée par les locaux! Vous pourrez également boire un verre aux “valseuses” pour une ambiance entre potes ou déguster une bière bretonne au “chapelier” ou à “L’atmosphère” pour une ambiance plus pub.
🖤 Si vous aimez les bons desserts et les bons petits plats, découvrez notre recette facile et authentique du far breton, approuvée par mon breton ainsi que la recette des moules bretonnes au cidre, un délice!
| WHERE TO SLEEP IN LANNION ?
We set out to find a bed & breakfast or a charming hotel, but theIbis hotel in the city center kindly invited us to stay at their establishment. It’s a nice surprise, as its stone façade immediately puts you in the mood for a Breton flavour. Nothing to do with a traditional ibis hotel that sometimes lacks charm.
- the fact that it’s no more than a 5-minute walk from the station and a 10-minute walk from the city center and tourist office.
- a fresh and hearty buffet breakfast
- its authentic, modern style
- its warm welcome
- its price, count in low season 50€ per night, excluding breakfast (€10)
➡️ If you prefer to book an apartment, I suggest save €40 on your Airbnb reservation
We leave you find what you’re looking for here for accommodation. Here are a few of our favorite addresses for your stay in Lannion.
- The Florent studio, a charming 2-bedroom apartment
- The Leguer guest house
- Pouldiguy guest house
- The Beg Leguer beach house
| TREBEURDEN, DOURVEN AND L’ILE GRANDE
Saddle up! On our electric bikes, we took to the woodland trails and then ventured out onto the coast following the signposted routes of “the Vélomaritime“.
The roads are really very beautiful and pleasant: they cross woods, run alongside waterways and take you to the heart of many small, quiet, authentic villages with their beautiful stone churches. It’s an opportunity to discover a type of architecture unique to Trebeurden: slate roofs, grey granite stone facades and white shutters shape the landscape.
An obligatory photo break on the coast near the pointe de Dourvenest! The walk through the pine forest is quite pleasant, with surprising Mediterranean vegetation. The view over the Locquémeau Bay. The little port is very quiet and famous for its fresh mussels (when they’re willing to serve them to you, lunch often stops after 1:30 pm), which we’ll try next time!
Direction Trebeurden! This rather quiet little town in September didn’t make much of an impression on me. I preferred its long sandy beach of Goas Lagorn and a few hundred meters further on his oyster workshop away from the road, where you can enjoy 6 oysters and 1 glass of white wine for just €9.99. Who better to eat fresh oysters at this price and in this setting?
🖤 Ne manquez pas également du côté de Trebeurden, le marais de Quellen, un site de 22 hectares qui regorge d’une faune et d’une flore extrêmement variés. Il n’est pas difficile à trouver car il est face à la plage Goas treiz. A travers une jolie balade forestière agréable et sur un sentier bien balisé, vous irez à la rencontre des chevaux camarguais qui y vivent. Pour les passionnés d’ornithologie, n’oubliez pas les jumelles et rendez-vous à l’observatoire spécialement prévu à cet effet, au début du parcours.
The ride takes effect when we arrive at the Ile grande, an almost untouched peninsula offering lost landscapes. The coastal walk is so pleasant, with the sea spray chilling your face as the sun makes its appearance. If you have time, visit Radome Park with its intriguing white ball.
Ile Grande is a little less touristy than Ploumanac’h lighthouse. We come here for its wild open spaces, its pure iodine air and the Kastel Erek point. This protected natural site is a former granite quarry, located to the northwest of Ile-Grande. A sheer rock falls steeply into the sea, and it’s still pretty impressive. People come here for the spectacular storms, renowned for their choppy waves.
One of the island’s other great attractions is the overlapping round stones, one on top of the other forming little men in the distance. The Ile-Grande coastline can only be explored on the footpath, which takes around 7km to complete, but is not easily accessible to baby carriages or people with reduced mobility.
The island’s ornithological station
The ornithological station is located in the axis of the bridge, at the other end of Île Grande. It is a sanctuary dedicated to the protection and preservation of birds. There’s also a care center for oiled birds, victims of oil spills and discharges.
My little tip: rest for a few minutes on a rock by the water to enjoy the sumptuous scenery and listen to the soothing sound of the sea. On one side, you have the Pointe de Toul-Ar-Staon and on the other a rocky dike. Winter’s raging waves pound the rocks beneath your feet.
| TREGASTEL, L’ILE RENOTE, PLOUMANACH, LES 7 ILES AND PERROS GUIREC
When you arrive in Tregastel, you’ll see the Baie de Sainte-Anne, the port and the boats of Trégastel. This bucolic little spot is full of charm at low tide or high tide, and has a very Breton feel to it. On the other side of the bay lies the Renote peninsula.
The Renote peninsula
If you have a little time, we also recommend a stop at the Renote peninsula. You can explore the magnificent pink granite rocks. You can park your car easily and free of charge in the parking lot, and take the whole family for a stroll along the pretty beach opposite. If you’re brave, you can dip your feet in, as the water is quite translucent. Walk around the peninsula, which is only 2 kilometers long on a well-maintained path. Take the “Renote Island Road” which will take you to the other end. At first sight, it’s not possible to make a complete tour. The highlight of this walk is undoubtedly the breathtaking view of the Ploumanac’h lighthouse and the pink granite rocks.
Last but not least, it’s possible to do a complete tour of the Renote peninsula in Trégastel, a pretty 2-kilometer loop that’s easy and accessible to all.
We’ve been looking forward to this much-photographed, postcard-familiar landscape. We present the Mean Ruz (red stones in Breton) lighthouse in Ploumanac’h, a unique landscape of granite stones sculpted by the elements over thousands of years. It is generally better known as Ploumanac’h lighthouse or pink granite coast lighthouse. These red stones sometimes appear ochre or pink, depending on the light, sunrise or sunset. It’s the best-known photo spot on the coast, and could resemble the rocks of the Seychelles Islands. This is quite unique in France.
This place is very crowded in high season so, if you want to have the feeling of being alone in the world, II’d advise you to go there at sunrise to enjoy this magnificent place. The walk from the port to the Ploumanac’h lighthouse takes about 30 minutes. From here, you can admire the coast and the Costaérès castle built in the middle of the sea.
This geological curiosity is characterized by extravagantly shaped, surprising and amusing rocks all along the 8 km pink granite coast. You’ll need to devote at least a day to one of the most famous coastal paths along the pink granite coast. Dotted here and there with heather, flowers and rocks, this path is perfect for lovers, families, friends and even our animal friends. In fact, there’s something for everyone!
We suggest you explore the area on foot to enjoy the scenery. There’s a mouthpiece for this easy, accessible hike. It’s about 5 kilometers long and takes about 2 hours, including photo stops. If you walk briskly, you can expect a 1-hour hike. This part of the loop follows the “sentier des douaniers” or coastal path. You may know him by name. For hikers and coastal walkers, the customers’ path (also known as the GR34), one of Brittany’s most emblematic. Over 1800 km of this trail runs along the entire coast of Brittany, starting at Mont Saint Michel and ending at the Arzal dam (Morbihan). Spectacular views over the clear turquoise sea. Lovers of unspoilt nature will adore this location and understand why the côte de granit rose is one of France’s most beautiful coasts. I hear it’s really beautiful.
Don’t hesitate to take a small piece of equipment with you on this hike picnic to land on the St-Guirec beach, leaving Ploumanac’h lighthouse. If you continue on your way, you’ll pass through the pretty little village and return on a lovely signposted path. It takes about 20 minutes from start to finish. You suddenly feel like you’re in the countryside.
On the way to the beach Saint Guirec, for example, we can suggest a stopover at the restaurant Mao to sample mussels at just €5.90 and 1/2 crab at €7, or enjoy a coffee break in the sun, lying back in the café’s deckchairs opposite Saint Guirec’s tiny golden sandy beach.
If you’re looking for a place to stay, there’s the very pretty beachfront hotel, the Castel Beau site which is well worth a visit for its tranquility and views. Otherwise you’ll find your happiness here in terms of accommodation in nearby Tregastel.
➡️ If you prefer to book an apartment, I suggest save €34 on your Airbnb reservation
The 7 islands archipelago
Sea side. Welcome to the 7 islands archipelago! In truth there are only five, probably a translation error in Breton. Just 5 kilometers off the coast opposite Perros Guirec lies a group of rocky islets, the Sept iles, forming a 40-hectare wild archipelago with the largest bird reserve in France and the third largest in the world. It’s home to one of France’s most spectacular colonies of Northern Gannets! An opportunity to discover the pink granite coast from the sea and to observe, among other things, the puffins from March to July grey seal colony almost all year round cormorants, some birds belonging to one of the protected species, as well as dolphins who may invite themselves during the visit. It’s an impressive sight and a real treat for the eyes! A 40-minute stop will take you down to Île aux Moines, the only island where human beings can set foot. Here, the water is translucent on one side and wild on the other. But what a breathtaking view! Offshore sailing is also well worth a visit just to see the coastline from the sea. It’s an outing we can’t recommend enough.
Perros-Guirec is a charming little town with a marina and one of Brittany’s most famous seaside resorts. We recommend stopping off here if only to stroll along its two superb beaches, Trestrignel and Trestraou, overlooked by prestigious houses from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The town offers a wide range of leisure activities and has established itself as one of France’s top tourist destinations.
For lunch, head for the best crêperie of the Granit Ros coaste, old riggings, located in the port of Perros-Guirec.
In summer, there are plenty of water sports activities for all ages to enjoy along these shores. You can be tempted by the paddleboarding, kayaking, surfing, windsurfing or even catamarans, but not only. Horseback riding and bicycle tours are also available! For more information, there’s a mobile app that lists 40 tourist and cultural points of interest.
➡️ If you would like to book a ride stand up paddle near Perros Guirec, info and reservations here
➡️ If you wish to take a surf lesson in Perros Guirrec, click here to book your outing
➡️ If you come in high season, remember to book in advance your accommodation, as Perros-Guirec is very popular and restaurant wait times can be very long. Find what you’re looking for here
As well as being beautiful, the côte de granit rose offers a choice of accommodation ranging from Michelin-starred hotels to charming B&Bs, as well as a multitude of bars, shops and restaurants for lunch and dinner. We leave you find what you’re looking for here
➡️ If you prefer to book an apartment, I suggest save €40 on your Airbnb reservation
As you can see, we really enjoyed this pink granite coast and would love to return. How can you not fall under the spell of this place? A weekend is so short but so relaxing, so go ahead and do what we did! You won’t regret it!
| COMMENT SE RENDRE SUR LA CÔTE DE GRANIT ROSE ?
- En voiture depuis Paris : pour nous c’est ce qu’il y avait de plus simple car nous vivons dans le 17ème arrondissement. Depuis Paris intra-muros, comptez environ 5 heures pour rejoindre la Côte de Granit Rose.
- En train depuis Paris : depuis la gare Montparnasse, comptez 2h15 en TGV pour vous rendre à Saint-Brieuc. Ici, vous devrez prendre une correspondance avec un TER pour Lannion. Le trajet dure environ 3h30 à 4h30 selon les correspondances disponibles.
| SE DÉPLACER SUR PLACE EN TRANSPORTS EN COMMUNS
Depuis Lannion, il est possible de rallier la Côte de Granit Rose en bus. Sachez tout de même que ces transports sont peu fréquents le week-end et en période de vacances scolaire. Comptez environ 30 minutes de bus depuis Lannion pour rejoindre la Côte de Granit rose. Les billets peuvent s’acheter directement à bord des bus et vous pouvez consulter les horaires des lignes D et E qui vous mèneront à Trégastel sur le site directement de l’office du tourisme.
La côte de granit rose est une véritable découverte pour moi (Marion) et une redécouverte pour Antoine, breton d’origine. Vous pouvez y aller à toutes les saisons pour respirer un bon bol d’air frais et pur et savourer des petits plaisirs simples en bord de mer.
N’oubliez pas d’épingler l’article sur Pinterest pour le retrouver plus facilement 🖤
Cet article est notre ressenti et notre expérience. Il est le fruit d’ une collaboration avec Accor Hôtel que nous remercions pour leur invitation.