Discover the Black Forest in autumn, a region that seemed touristy to me but left me with incredible memories.
Germany is a big first for me. Apart from Berlin, which I flew over for a weekend, I’d never been there before, and it’s a shame to have waited so long. The Black Forest is a region I’ve been eyeing for a while, but never thought of booking a few days there. When the opportunity arose, I didn’t hesitate for a moment.
To situate you, the Black Forest is a region bordering France and located in south-western Germany in the Baden-Württemberg region. We know Baden Baden, the famous spa town almost in the middle. But what do we really know about the Black Forest, apart from the fact that it’s one of Germany’s most beautiful regions and has made a certain cake famous? The Black Forest is a varied landscape: in the north, majestic forests of green-black spruce line steep roads; in the center, hillside vineyards, picturesque towns and villages and farmhouses; in the south, lakes alternate with high peaks.
We invite you to read our other articles on the Black Forest, such as:
Did you know? Around 400 restaurants and chefs in the Black Forest win astronomical guide awards every year! It’s a perfect region for the pleasure of the taste buds
GOOD PLAN: The map KONUS allows passengers to travel free of charge by bus and train, almost anywhere in the Black Forest tourist region. It is offered by over 10,000 establishments in the Black Forest, and can be used without limit for the duration of your stay.
SOMMAIRE DE L'ARTICLE :
KARLSRUHE
Very close to the French border, this charming little town will undoubtedly be the first stop on your trip to the Black Forest. Between museums, botanical gardens and gourmet addresses, discover Karlsruhe and its highlightsin two days.
BAIERSBRONN
It’s time to leave Karlsruhe and begin our Black Forest journey. Take streetcar S8 opposite Central Station, leaving at 9.11 a.m. for Baiersbronn, scheduled arrival 10:47 a.m.. (cost of journey €11.90)
The train takes us through the famous Black Forest landscapes with picturesque villages such as Schiltach. I can guarantee you that visiting the Black Forest in autumn gives it a real charm. This thick fog is beginning to settle between the fir trees, and the mystical atmosphere brings out the flamboyant colors of this season, which I love! Baiersbronn is famous for its lakes, its 550km network of hiking trails through the Black Forest Park, now a protected ecological area, and its many panoramic views:
- theObservation deck Allmandblick from the promontory, you can enjoy the beautiful view of the Murgtal and the deep valleys of the region.
- that of‘ Ellbachseeblick and Ellbachsee lake
The region is renowned for its art de vivre, its hospitality and because it is the birthplace of 8 Michelin-starred restaurants in the Michelin guide. And yes, with no less than 3 Michelin-starred chefs, Baiersbronn gourmet capital, is one of the world’s most Michelin-starred establishments. Surprising, no?
If you’re looking for close-up photography Deer and hinds in the Black Forest, I invite you to make an early morning visit to the Ellbachtal Mitteltal reserve. Access is free and these rather curious animals can be observed close to the fences if you are quiet. You may be lucky enough to catch a glimpse of one while hiking in the Black Forest Park, which covers 10,000 hectares of forests and lakes.
We quickly took a guided tour of the valley of Buhlbach to test the famous Guided herbal tour Ellbachtall anddiscover the wild and natural edible plants we used for our impromptu aperitif in the heart of nature. A very convivial and warming moment before heading off for lunch at Forellenhof. This superb spot in the heart of the Buhlbach reserve has been transformed into a chalet restaurant and fish farm. Surrounded by pure, idyllic nature, the fish farm comprises 17 basins and ponds that are fed directly by the natural spring of the “Leinbächle”. You’ll come here to enjoy a refined menu featuring freshly caught trout specialties, smoked salmon trout and delicious flammekueches, as well as meat and vegetarian dishes in a charming setting. I highly recommend it! It’s also possible to buy local produce, including famous home-smoked trout in their little store at the entrance.
Count around €11.50 for the Buhlbach trout fillet smoked in beech wood and €12.50 for the tarte flambée with smoked trout fillet.
Trout farm Buhlbach Scliffkopfsraße 64
72270 Baiersbronn-Buhlbach
Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and on reservation
- Visit Buhlbach Glassworks Cultural Park
For history lovers, you can visit in the last remaining historic buildings of what was once the Black Forest’s most important glassworks. Glassblowers would have created the typical champagne bottle with a curved bottom to hold the bubbles. This museum retraces the daily life of the period, with objects from yesteryear displayed in several rooms.
Schliffkofstrasse 46,
72270 Baiersbronn-Buhlbach
Open May to October, Wednesday to Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
- The Ellbachseeblick
To reach this apparently one of the highest points in the Black Forest, you have to take a wide, easily accessible forest track bordered by a multitude of colorful ferns. The panoramic terrace is made entirely of wood and is some twenty meters long, reaching an altitude of 921 meters. The panorama is breathtaking, overlooking a deep, wild forest at a height of 9 metres. You feel like flying over the peat bog lake you can see in the distance, once the mist clears. Access is free and closed during the winter for safety reasons.
- The Lotharpfad trail
Covering an area of around 10 hectares, the Lotharpfad, or the Lothar, is a trail in the Scliffkopf nature reserve on the Black Forest road between Oppenau and Baiersbronn. It was created in 2003 to show the devastation wrought by storm Lothar on 12/26/1999, which razed part of the forest with winds of up to 200 km/h.
This short trail, almost a kilometer long, is the most popular in the Black Forest. You’ll reach a panoramic platform via several walkways, ladders and staircases. Due to bad weather, we couldn’t do everything! Apparently, when the weather’s right, you can even see the Vosges and sometimes the Alps. Allow 30 minutes to complete this free, easy and accessible trail for adults and children alike, but bring good walking shoes and waterproof clothing at this time of year.
From Freudenstadt, by bus, stop at Lotharpfad with VGF lines 12 and F2 (Sundays and public holidays)
FREUDENSTADT
The road to Baiersbronn is really superb, so take the time to stop and take a few photos along the way. Continue your journey to Freudenstadt to finally taste the region’s emblematic cake: the Black Forest. We’ve found the best place for it, and it’s the Café Pause (Marktplatz 65, 72250 Freudenstadt), which is located on Germany’s largest market square. Black Forest is prepared the same day and must be eaten fresh to appreciate its taste. Can you imagine the number of cakes prepared every day?
Visitforêt-noire, in German Black forest cake, literally« Black Forest cherry cake », is a German pastry made from cocoa sponge soaked in local kirsch, then filled with whipped cream and local cherries. It is completely covered with whipped cream and sprinkled with chocolate shavings. I have to tell you, I’ve never eaten such a good Forêt Noire in my life, and the secret of success lies in the proportions of the cream and the Kirsch! Even if you don’t have a sweet tooth, a stopover is highly recommended.
Did you know? The origin of this cake comes from a town near Bonn. It was then improved in the Black Forest region, with the addition of the famous local kirch. What’s more, the traditional Black Forest hat, with its red balls, represents the cherries that are put on this cake.
- Night in hotel Teuchelwald (Schömberger Str. 9, 72250 Freudenstadt). The hotel, located in a green setting, is very correct, clean and rather large. We dined in their restaurant, which offers a wide selection of German dishes. We didn’t come across a single French person, but rather German travelers who had come to discover their country. For my room, I had a view of the mountains, which is pretty cool for morning photos. Special mention for the reception and restaurant staff dressed in traditional costumes. The hotel has a spa and swimming pool. Prices start at €69 a night in low season and €73 in high season.
- If you’d like another nice little address, you can stay and have lunch at the hotel. Blume (Rechtmurgstraße 108, 72270 Baiersbronn), the gasthof Blume in Oppenau or in this hilltop hotel, the only one in the Black Forest National Park, I present to you the hotel Ground head. The view looks very nice.
We dined at the hotel restaurant Teuchelwald (Schömberger Str. 9, 72250 Freudenstadt). The food is very good and prices are very affordable, from €12 to €25 a dish.
- For the best black forest food, go to Café Pause (Marketplace 65, 72250 Freudenstadt)
If you want to relax, you can either use the hotel spa or the Panoramabad (Ludwig-Jahn-Strasse 60, 72250 Freudenstadt, Germany) with its many family-friendly pools and slides.
FREIBURG
Freiburg or Freiburg im Breisgau is an undeniable favorite. This medieval town of 225,000 inhabitants is perfect for a short getaway. Known as one of Germany’s greenest cities, the town is criss-crossed by a system of small streams and canals called Bächle into which the river water flows. These canals, which were once used as fire-fighting channels, are now real works of art, with some of them featuring beautiful creations that delight the children who come to play with their rubber boots and wooden boats. Freiburg is also said to be Germany’s sunniest city… We only had a few rays, but that’s not too bad! To appreciate it, simply stroll through the historic center, wander the cobbled streets and take advantage of the many pedestrian zones. Read our article on Freiburg’s must-sees.
MULLHEIM
Departure from Freiburg station at 2:35 pm, arrival at Müllheim/Baden at 3:02 pm. Just a 30-minute drive south of Freiburg, welcome to Mullheim. At first sight, I found it very quiet and didn’t really see the point, but this charming little village has a lot to offer.
The town of Müllheim, which means “mill”, takes its name from the many mills that once existed here, but industrialization has led to the disappearance of this profession. You may be lucky enough to meet Martin, an emblematic figure of this town, known by all the inhabitants and part of the bakers’ guild.
In one day, we made the tour and saw the « Markgräfler Square », the main square, the church « Martinskirche », the mill « Frick » which bears important witness to Müllheim’s economic history, and the museum « Markgraefler Museum » which addressesthe history, art and culture of this region. (3€ admission and open from 10am to 6pm) . You’ll also pass the Kander, the river that runs through the village. The little alleyway where the restaurant Winzerhaus (Marktplatz 4) is very pretty with its fountain and colorful facades. There are plenty of terraces for lunch.
Dine at restaurant Louis, Markgräfler Place (Wilhelmstraße 18), renowned for its fine selection of beers and delicious regional dishes, including tarts flambées or Wurstsalat, also known in Alsace as the Alsatian salad made with cervelat, grated Gruyère cheese and small tomatoes.
The Bade-Wurtemberg, is Germany’s third-largest wine and gastronomy region. With its 16.000 hectares of vineyards, the Mullheim wine region nicknamed Markgräflerland has 500 hectares of wine on its own. The region’s oldest wine market is held every April in Müllheim.
The wines are spoiled by the sun, which gives them a special taste, and all kinds of wines can be produced here: rosé, white and red. It’s the chasselas Gutedel (a white grape), the region’s signature variety. German white wines are somewhat similar to those from Alsace.
So what could be better than to visit the area by vélo scooter under a beautiful sun? It sounds a bit crazy, but it’s a lot of fun. First you have to get used to the machine and skate on the bike path. The climbs are a bit sporty, as you might expect, but the descents are really nice and fun. The tour covers 7km on a scooter bike and takes you to the heights of the Muggardt vineyards, for an unforgettable experience. wine tasting with a view of the vineyards. You can contact vélo trottinettes on their website Markgraefler scooter tours.
Britzingen vineyard
Markgräflerstr. 25-29 79379 Müllheim
Every day from 9am to 12:30pm and from 2pm to 6pm, except Saturday from 9am to 12:30pm and Sunday from 10am to 1pm.
Price: €30/person for rental and guided tour (2 to 3 hours), plus €10 for wine tasting. Make sure you’re wearing sportswear to feel comfortable on the scooter.
WHERE TO SLEEP IN MULLHEIM
To sleep, go to the hotel Alte Post, Posthalterweg, located a little way from the center but in a pretty historic building, the town’s former coaching inn built in 1745. The hotel has a lovely little shaded courtyard, which must be nice in summer. Rooms named after plants (Oregano, Rosemary…) are spacious and clean, and the organic breakfast is copious.
From €60 per night
Practical info black forest
- Distance by train
– 2h25 each way from Paris to Karlsruhe and 3h on the return trip from Basel to Paris. From Marseille, allow 6h30 by train. Find your cheapest train ticket to Karlsruhe here!
− From Strasbourg, you can link Offenbourg thanks to numerous daily connections, taking a German ICE train to other Black Forest towns.
- Distance by car
– From Paris, it’s a 5h30 drive, from Lyon a 6h drive. Find your car rental at the best price here!
- The plane
You will land in the town of Basel (Bâle) south of the Black Forest or in Baden-Baden to the north. Find your flight here with Skyscanner
- Travelling by train between major cities
German train operator ICE offers regular trains throughout the country. You can buy your tickets directly at the station on the day of your departure.
- Bus travel between major cities
Every German city has its own bus network, so it’s easy to get around using this mode of transport. Please consult the tourist offices in each city where you are staying for timetables and routes.
- Food
Dishes are often generous and served in large quantities. We eat a lot of fresh pasta with eggs. “spaetzle” but also schnitzels, breadcrumb-coated schnitzel, sausages, French fries, sauce dishes. There are also many vegetarian and vegan restaurants and tea rooms.
We invite you to read our articles on the Black Forest:
The Black Forest is the perfect destination for couples, friends and of course families. Adventure, nature discovery, climbing gardens, swimming lakes, castles, discovery trails, leisure and family parks – this is what awaits you in this beautiful region. The Black Forest remains a region of contrasts with a strong character, authentic with its famous red pompom hats, and unspoiled by mass tourism. Even if it’s more popular in summer, autumn is still a wonderful time to get close to it.
This article is still my impression. It’s the fruit of a collaboration between several tourist offices in the Black Forest region (Karlsruhe, Baiersbronn, Freudenstadt, Freiburg, Müllheime) and the Sncf, whom I’d like to thank for their invitation and this wonderful discovery.
