Itinerary | Discover the Savoie cheese route in summer

For many years now, wine-growing regions have been offering their own wine routes to discover the secrets of their terroirs. For a weekend, we take you on the Savoy cheese trail.

 

The Savoie cheese route is a journey around Annecy and its lake, between the Bauges and Aravis mountains. Let’s set off to discover savoir faire, amid verdant landscapes, intermingled with unusual accommodations and not-so-fatty meals. As a true French cheese lover, I don’t suppose you can resist learning more about one of France’s most beautiful regions.

This route originated in three mountain regions (Savoie, Haute Savoie and Vallée d’Aoste) which share a common history, landscape, culture and strong agro-pastoral tradition.
The idea was to showcase all the companies and people involved with cheeses, through visits to farms, cheese dairies and maturing cellars, for example. Today, the Savoie cheese route is focused on the Savoie Mont Blanc region, with over 70 sites to discover every stage in the cheese-making process, local products including 8 cheeses, and the people who contribute to the richness of this region.

 

 

LA ROUTE DES FROMAGES DE SAVOIE | MILK PRODUCTION, PROCESSING AND REFINING

 

But why not discover the Savoie cheese route in summer, the jewel in the crown of the Savoie Mont-Blanc region. Firstly, because these cheeses are all authentic and each more delicious than the last. Discover the route des fromages de Savoie is also a simple way to discover the professions that make cheese. Here, people have preserved the craftsman’s gestures that give all their character to the different products. There are many cheeses in Savoie-Mont Blanc, but seven of them, made from whole milk, are classified under 2 labels:

 

| PDO: Protected Designation of Origin (A.O.P. in French)

| PGI: Protected Geographical Indication (I.G.P. in French)

 

These labels guarantee a know-how that has been handed down from generation to generation: first and foremost that of dairy farmers and their local breed cows Abondance, Montbéliarde or Tarine which adapt to the climate. Then there are the cheesemakers who make the cheeses on the farm or in the dairy. Finally, there are the ripeners, who finish the job by maturing the cheeses as best they can. They also define a geographical area and specifications that go far beyond those of an organic label, enabling local, responsible production.

 

These cheeses are

| A.O.P. Abondance

| Beaufort A.O.P

| Chevrotin A.O.P

| A.O.P. Reblochon

| Tome des bauges A.O.P

| I.G.P. Tomme de Savoie

| I.G.P. Emmental de Savoie

| I.G.P. Raclette de Savoie

 

What we really enjoyed about this route was discovering the secrets of cheese-making (it reminded me of my childhood when we went on school outings), and also seeing how cheese production is managed. Here, animals are not pushed to produce to the maximum. Breeders seek the well-being of their animals in order to obtain the best milk. They understood that stress on the animals very quickly resulted in poor-quality milk and therefore poorer cheese. The key word is QUALITY.

We like these values, and they shape the landscape: to meet the specifications, farmers must feed their cows herbs from within a 15 km radius of their farms. This helps to perpetuate the tradition of alpine pastures. In summer, for around 4 months (May to September), the men lead their herds to the mountain pastures. The animals feed on fresh grasses, while hay is produced in the valley. The breeders therefore have a second farm perched on the mountain… a mountain pasture.

But what has tourism got to do with it? And many unique landscapes of natural, flower-filled meadows, with cows grazing in the summer and ringing their bells, to be enjoyed by hikers, mountain bikers and other outdoor enthusiasts. These meadows wouldn’t exist without it. The forest is said to have reclaimed all these areas, making it impossible for us to ski down the slopes in winter. A true economic model that respects the environment and the animals’ rhythms, and thus benefits everyone, locals and tourists alike.

 

 

Discovering the Cheese Route means getting hands-on experience of 3 key stages in the cheese-making process:

 

1 | Milk production

Milking cows is no easy task, but it’s one not to be neglected if you want good cheese! It was at Émilie’s that we discovered a mountain pasture farm, just at milking time, around 5pm, when the cows were quietly returning from the flowery meadows. The Jacquot family, owners of the Alpage de la Combe des Villards ( Gaec les noisetiers) is very friendly and open to sharing her work. She produces and transforms her milk into Abondance cheese, which she refines in part (20% of production, the rest going to the refiner). The opportunity to discover this key moment in the cheese-making process, and to have a good laugh while feeding the newborn calves!

 

 

2 | The cheese maker

After milking in a mountain pasture or like us at the Semnoz dairy, come and see the cheese maker at work. fruitière Chabert located in Gruffy, Haute-Savoie. Here, nothing is industrial, so production quantities are not the same. A fruitière is a dairy cooperative where farmers bring their milk to be processed and sold. Not producing enough milk individually, farmers pool the fruits of their labor to pool their resources, creating local jobs and offering local commerce. Here you can see all the stages of production, including curdling, molding and refining. Here, know-how and modernity come together to make Tomes des Bauges and Abondance with milk from nearby farms.

 

 

 

 

3 | Refining

So, let’s talk about refining.

This is a key stage in the production process, sometimes carried out by farmers, but which can be taken to the extreme by the expertise of a master cheese ripener. It’s at Joseph Paccard, company located in Manigod that we learn about this profession and taste cheeses including Reblochon, the region’s flagship product and one of the pillars of the agricultural economy.

And what a reblochon! One of the best I’ve ever tasted in my life: it’s creamy, smooth, fresh, soft – in short, a pure delight! Eric Favre, the man in charge of tours, is exceptional and passionate! No fewer than 8 people meticulously work the cheeses every day in cellars designed to optimize the conditions for the development of the healthy bacteria working in the cheeses. The wines are turned over and placed at the top or bottom of the cellar, depending on their development, so that they can deliver all their aromas once in the mouth.

Approximately 50 days of maturing are required for Reblochons, and 80 to 120 days for Abondance. It’s a masterpiece of craftsmanship, based essentially on the experience of the ripener, to bring our products to life on our tables. Note that you can buy online these cheeses.

In all, no fewer than 72 sites open their doors to you in the region, and you’ll find all the addresses on their websites. Naturally, each visit includes a tasting session and an opportunity to chat with the professional. You can also buy cheese on site.

 

 

4 | Summer activities in the region

During your visits to the Savoie cheese routes, you can also take advantage of the many summer activities that the mountains have to offer and try out some unusual accommodations such as The Semnoz Eco-bivouac, from igloo-like altidomes in the forest. Whether you’re a thrill-seeker, a rambler or a lover of the good things in life, you’ll love this place if you don’t! find what you’re looking for here for other accommodations.

 

 

Here are a few ideas for family activities, for young and old, but also for couples.

 

• Activities in Annecy

If you like thrills such as hang-gliding, canyoning, hot-air ballooning or rafting, we’ve got something for you, find what you’re looking for here for busy summer days in the mountains. You’ll be delighted by the range of activities on offer. Personally, I’d like to try hang-gliding over the lake, as I’ve never done it before!

 

 

• Country picnic at Semnoz with tasting of local beers and Savoie cheeses 

At the Semnoz station in the Bauges Massif, we enjoyed a bucolic picnic in the heart of the mountains.

First, we had a craft beer and cheese aperitif to discover some little-known and fragrant combinations before tasting the meal prepared by the charming and kind Anne Claude from the blog mangeurs libres, a dietitian and epicurean in Annecy. She takes great care of you and offers a completely healthy picnic: salad seasoned with essential oils, carrot and mint soup, legume falafels, savory ratatouille and local cheese cake sprinkled with pumpkin seeds, melon and apricot tarts, and chocolate mousse on a red berry coulis seasoned with herbs. Nothing but good, organic food in a very friendly atmosphere before enjoying a little nap in the grass! Yes, it’s a bit bohemian, but as good Parisians, we embrace it.

| Contact: anne.mangeurlibre@gmail.com/ 06.20.09.68.57

 

 

 

• Summer tobogganing

You can also go summer sledding. Antoine was keen to give it a try, as it brought back memories of his youth… and I must say, it’s easy to get hooked. Located just 35 minutes from Rumilly, this 850m circuit has numerous hairpin bends, two tunnels, and a super jump. It is suitable for children aged 3 and up, as well as adults. You will also find mini karts, blackmountain, and runix. Enjoy the thrill for €4 per ride or €17 for 5 rides. Open from May to August.

 

• Guided mountain hike

Another idea, in leisure mode, is to take a guided hike to discover the flora and fauna and gain a better understanding of the area. You will discover animals, rock formations, and plants that are widely used, particularly in the production of mountain spirits. You will also learn about the biodiversity of flower-filled meadows, which are important for the quality of milk and therefore cheese. You don’t need to be a keen walker to take part in this outing, just a little motivation. It can be done with children, which is entirely in keeping with the spirit of the Semnoz resort, which offers mainly family-oriented activities. It can also end, as ours did, with a visit to an alpine pasture, arriving at milking time at the Alpage de la Combe des Villards (Gaec les noisetiers, presentation just above).

 

 

Forget raclette, let’s try reblochonnade at Alpage des Corbassières!

 

The Savoie cheese route also offers mouth-watering experiences, even in summer. In the Beauregard mountains, you can hike from La Clusaz resort to the Corbassières mountain pasture. This farm, which produces Reblochon cheese, also serves as a farmhouse inn. It is run by Marie-Louise Donzel and offers meals made exclusively with farm products, perfect for a lunch break.

It was with great excitement that we discovered reblochonnade! My stomach still remembers it… It is a slight variation on tartiflette, as both recipes, which originated in the same Aravis mountains, are made with Reblochon cheese. The only difference is that no bacon is added to reblochonnade! Mini pans are inserted into tabletop barbecues and the delicious cheese is melted until it is runny and slightly grilled. Once ready, it is spread over hot potatoes accompanied by salad. Delicious!

And even though it’s spring, we have to admit that this lunch goes down very well, as does this white tomme cheese made with Reblochon molded the day before and seasoned with olive oil and herbs in the style of Greek feta. Farm meals and alpine pasture tours start at €25 and require reservations.

 

 

 

Don’t hesitate to stop off on your way back down at the museum, Le Hameau des Alpes. This museum was created in a 19th-century chalet that was moved and renovated. You can have fun discovering the secrets of cheese making and learning about the history of the La Clusaz ski resort, including the first ski lifts and the evolution of skis and equipment. It’s a real journey back in time for young and old alike.

 

|How to get to the Savoie cheese road?

If you don’t have a car and want to rent one, we recommend Skyscanner, which we use every time we need flights and cars. We’ve never been disappointed with their services. Check availability and book your car online here.

 

Paris → Annecy or Aix les Bains

 

• By car from Paris: allow 5/6 hours to reach Annecy or Aix les Bains

 

• By train from Paris : from Gare de Lyon, allow 4 hours by train to reach Annecy or Aix Les Bains by TGV.

 

Genève

 

• You can also fly to Geneva, and I recommend comparing flights using the tool I always use: Find your flight with Skyscanner

 

• If you are looking for a day trip from Geneva to discover Annecy, you can click here to book your day.

 

The mountains are calling! My taste buds and eyes were in for a treat for two days. Farmers, cooperatives, cheese makers, affineurs, and alpine herders have all signed a charter guaranteeing you a warm welcome and high-quality services. What they all have in common is a desire to showcase and talk about their products, their trades, their way of life, and to share their passion! Self-guided or guided tours, snacks or meals on the farm, exhibitions and museum spaces, immersion in the production process or milking, not to mention guided hikes in the mountains around the sites—there’s something for everyone! We invite you to enjoy a genuine and unforgettable experience with your family, as a couple, or with friends. What do you think? Would you like to take the Savoie cheese route?

 

 

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We would like to thank Sophie from the Air Pur agency, as well as all the farmers and artisans we met who welcomed us to their mountain pastures and allowed us to discover this region and its expertise.