After spending part of my childhood in the neighbouring department (Ariège), I was delighted to come back to the Aude to let you discover a part of this region inhabited by people who love their land.

I’m writing these few lines as we leave Narbonne under a magnificent blue sky, crossing the vineyards that dot this region with its agricultural history. So here’s our itinerary for a stay full of cultural discoveries, sporting outings and unusual accommodation, punctuated by encounters with the passionate people who make up this warm region and who will share a piece of their Aude with you.

We also invite you to read our article on this unusual accommodation that we tested, the perched cabins not far from Carcasonne.

D1 | CARCASSONNE AND THE SURROUNDING AREA

• CARCASSONNE AND ITS CITY

A trip to theAude region would be inconceivable without a stopover in Carcassonne. But don’t drop in just to eat a cassoulet without taking the time to learn about its history – you’ll miss out on the essential.

Katia, a tour guide specialising in Carcassonne, and other qualified guides, will give you the keys to the city so that you can understand its history from Roman times right up to the present day. Its architecture, its special features and why it was built here with so many towers are just some of the anecdotes to be told on this tour. Having been here several times before, I was surprised to discover views I’d never seen before. You’ll see that the city takes on a whole new dimension! Lunch in Carcassonne at the restaurant St Jean, place St jean. A good place to eat, with a very good cassoulet and a beautiful view of the Comtal castle, but the service was a little cold when we were there.

➡️ If, like us, you’d like to see the beautiful city of Carcassonne from a different angle, click herefor a guided tour lasting around 2 hours.

• Sports activities to discover the Aude

TheAude is often flooded with sunshine during the summer. After a morning of exploring the city, punctuated by lunch in Place St Jean, we set off in search of fresh air. There’s no shortage of water-based activities here, including kayak hire, rafting, guided walks, hydro speed, paddle boarding and canyoning. For half a day or a full day, you can enjoy the lush greenery of the banks of theAude and its cool, not-so-cold water. The riverAudeis warmed by summer temperatures. It’s an opportunity to enjoy a pleasant, sporty moment in the heart of nature. We really enjoyed this outing, but beware of the water level and look out for other activities to do if the conditions don’t allow it.

For this outing and the period we were there, we went kayaking but we’d also recommend the following activities if you’re in the area.

• ➡️ A 2-hour or half-day rafting trip. It’s 7 km of fun and easy descent. To book a rafting trip and check availability, click on this link

• ➡️ Beginner canyoning in the Gorges de Galamus. Bookings and availability here

There are many activities on offer here: canyoning, Via Ferrata, paragliding, climbing, parachute jumping…

• A truffled dinner

Let’s move on to gastronomy, and not just any gastronomy: truffles. We thought that this mushroom was exclusive to the Périgord, but we’ve discovered that theAude has nothing to envy. To find out, head to Carcassonne, at the foot of the medieval city, to the tapas bar L’atelier de la truffe run by Philippe Barrière and his wife. A lover of good local produce, this former truffle advisor continues to work his truffle field and has set up this little bar with the aim of raising awareness of truffles and making them less elitist. She’s in the kitchen, he’s at the service, and between them they’ll introduce you to an exceptional product in a warm and friendly bistro atmosphere. Their dishes are based on seasonal truffles (summer, winter and autumn truffles), with recipes that combine them with potatoes, eggs, goat’s cheese and, most surprising of all, ice cream. The atmosphere of his bistro and his desire to pass on his passion make Philippe an unusual character. We came away with a desire to continue discovering this product in every season. If, like us, you love Italian restaurants and truffle pasta, this is a culinary discovery for you and your palate, as many restaurants use truffle flavourings, distancing us from the real taste of the product. If you love truffles, this is the place to go!

• Sleeping in cabins in the woods

Round off the day with a rest in the wooden cabinsdeVivalier, just 15km from Carcassonne. This unusual establishment of 23 cabins will enchant you with its atmosphere and perfectly appointed comfort cabins. Odile and her husband, the owners, have made this place warm, friendly and so pretty. Find out more about our experience these unusual perched huts in detail.

J2 | FROM LAGRASSE TO CUCUGNAN

• Discover Lagrasse, classified as the most beautiful village in France

Let’s leave Carcassonne and head a little further into the département to the small village of Lagrasse to meet, Cyril Codina. In this listed village“most beautiful village in France” that a few years ago he set up a museum, ” Le 1900 “. It takes us back to the early 20th century in the heart of the vineyards. And it succeeds, to say the least. Equipped with an audio-guide, you’ll be put in the mood in the first part, discovering everyday objects before discovering two scenes on the upper floor that will transport you directly back in time.

Part of the museum also showcases Cyril’s work, which involves producing both wine and vinegar. But it’s in his store a little further down the square that we discover him. This modern space is a free sales and tasting area for his products from the 6 hectares of vines he cultivates to make wines of character, as well as superb artisanal vinegars, flavored in natural ways for completely organic products. Cyril is a very likeable person because he is passionate about his work, which he will be sure to pass on to you if you take the time to visit him. Believe me, you won’t be disappointed, as you’ll be carried away by this artist’s good humour.

• At noon, a medieval lunch awaits you

Nestled in the heart of the Château de Villerouge-Termenes, the restaurant la Medieval Rotisserie invites you to take a trip back to the Middle Ages with a return to the cuisine of that era. Of course the recipes are surprising, but above all they’re amazing (Vegetarian menus are also available). Period costumes are available to complete the journey and the experience of returning to 1200. We had a lot of laughs, and we recommend it, especially if you’re with friends or family.

• Pedaling in Cucugnan, an afternoon of sport and discovery

We continue our adventure in the Aude with Béatrice, whom we join in the characterful little village of Cucugnan, made popular by Alphonse daudet. This dynamic, smiling little woman directs Aude Cathare Évasion and offers activities combining electric mountain biking with discovery of the local area, heritage or flora and fauna. So off we go for a bike ride through some superb scenery. At our start, the road doesn’t climb too much and we discover bucolic little landscapes as we drive through vineyards as well as bathing spots such as l’oeil de mer or the Verdouble gorges at Duilhac-sous-Peyrepertuse.

In the late afternoon, we headed for the Château de Peyrepertuse nestled on the top of a peak, and we were glad to have the electric assistance. It enabled us to climb the pass leading to it, but not without a few drops of sweat, because don’t think you won’t have to pedal an electric bike… On the other hand, it’s much easier to get around the mountain. The view from the castle is breathtaking, overlooking the entire valley.

• Rest at Logis L’auberge du vigneron

This small 5-room hotel in the pretty village of Cucugnan is also part of the Logis network. You’ll find recently renovated bedrooms, a ground-floor breakfast room and a cocooning lounge where you’ll feel right at home. A restaurant on the lower level offers semi-gastronomic cuisine featuring local produce. A good address, reasonable prices, a nice place to stay in the heart of this charming little village.

J3 | NARBONNE AND THE MEDITERRANEAN COAST

• Bathing around Narbonne and Gruissan

Let’s now take the road to the south of theAude, to get closer to the Mediterranean and Narbonne. By the way, Narbonne is a destination that lends itself very well to a wide range of water sports. The wind is their trademark and it’s thanks to it that they have so much sunshine all year round. That’s why we recommend a few activities below to make the perfect combination of sun and beach.

➡️ Wakeboarding at Barbarès. Information and bookings here

• Wine tour and Simone car ride

As for us, it’s more precisely at La Palme as we meet Isabelle for a wine tour. This smiling, bubbly woman is the director of Vin4heures. Passionate about her region and wine, she invites you back to the 50s at the wheel of a 2CV, the famous Citroën car.

This vineyard borders the Etang de La Palme, Leucate and, of course, the Mediterranean. It gave birth to the region’s first AOC, the Fitou, in 1948. You’ll have the pleasure of driving this wind-in-the-hair car on small roads through selected parcels, with commentary on the history of this terroir. Isabelle can also organize walks with picnics and share with you the beautiful panoramas and the know-how of Marion and Mickaël Fontanel Moyer, organic winegrowers settled in the heart of France. Château Les Fenals. Working with her husband, she produces Chardonnay, white and rosé Muscats, Syrah and, of course, Fitou reds. A tasting session will give you a good overview of the wines of this terroir in an authentic and charming winery offering a gîte and guest rooms for 2 and 4 people.

• Fontfroide Abbey

Let’s end our discovery of the Aude with a cultural visit to the heart of the FontFroide massif, 4000 hectares of unspoilt nature. TheCistercianabbey of Fontfroideisa truly remarkable site in the heart of the department, halfway between Carcassonne and Narbonne. With beautiful courtyards, a unique rose garden, extensive gardens and a magnificent cloister, this site is a real “coup de coeur” that we highly recommend.

Fontfroide Abbey, dating from the 12th and 13th centuries, can be visited using a digital approach, giving the site a very playful feel. Equipped with a digital tablet and headphones, you can discover the site by moving from room to room, with access to audio, photo and video content. A truly original and modern presentation, adding a real plus to the visit.

In the evening, enjoy dinner at the table de Fontfroide and attend the summer nocturnes in July and August, with a sound and light show projected on various walls of the abbey. We regret, however, that the price of this evening event is not commensurate with the show on offer.

• La Maison Gustave guest rooms

Our journey ends in Narbonne, in the heart of the city, a stone’s throw from the historic centre, where you can enjoy“The Gustave house“. The concept behind La Maison Gustave is to make yourself at home, in complete freedom but with special attention. Christelle and Cécile wanted to create something different, an urban chambre d’hôte inspired by their many travels around the world.

This completely renovated 19th-century dwelling boasts an absolutely incredible and unique view of Saint Just Cathedral and its gardens, right in the centre of town. The 5 rooms are beautifully decorated, like duplex apartments, with all the same comforts. Breakfast includes fresh morning bread, pastries from one of the city’s best bakeries, homemade jams made by grandparents, fruit juices and fresh fruit brochettes, served in your room in a basket delivered to your door, leaving you free to enjoy the morning. The Maison Gustave gives you access to all amenities within a 5-minute walk: museums, galleries, boutiques, restaurants, cafés, bars, await you at the foot of the house. Every Thursday and Sunday you can take advantage of the market located on the Promenade des Barques and Cours Mirabeau, not forgetting the famous covered food market open every morning: Les Halles de Narbonne offers fresh, authentic local produce, a meeting place for the pleasure of your taste buds! In other words, a cosy, cool and authentic address that combines the spirit of a hotel with that of a guest house for a different kind of accommodation.

It is possible to book around Narbonne to make some nice outings. We recommend a few below: ➡️ An electric mountain bike ride in La Clape near Narbonne. Information and bookings here

Limoux is an hour and 35 minutes’ drive from Narbonne. The region lends itself quite well to wine tasting, and it would be a shame to leave here without tasting some good wine. Take a trip to Limoux. Discover Limoux’s rich French winemaking tradition as you explore an estate dating back to the 16th century. Taste 3 premium wines after touring the vineyards, winery and cellar.

➡️ If you would like to book and find out about availability for this tour, please click on this link

I used to think that the Aude was all about châteaux and Cathar country, but think again! This region has a lot to offer in terms of gastronomic, cultural and sporting discoveries. It’s a dynamic department that does everything it can to appeal to couples, friends and families alike. The people we met made the Aude an incredibly complete and interesting holiday. This department will surprise you during your holidays.

Let us know in the comments if this article makes you want to discover this beautiful department? Perhaps you’ve already heard of it?

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