After Viñales, we head for Playa Larga in the southern part of the island for a trip that promises to be surprising, with snorkeling in the coves and wildlife observation on the agenda.
In the end, we didn’t really know what to expect when we arrived. Playa Larga, in the middle of the Cienaga Zapata. We just knew that the Baie des Cochons “bahía de los cochinos in Spanish ” is a well-known bay in Cuban history, as it was the place where Cuban revolutionaries repelled the attempted invasion of American-backed Cuban exiles in 1961.
But what will remain with us from our visit to this region is its natural beauty, with a beautiful coral reef and mangrove-fringed beaches. La Cienaga de Zapata is a vast territory of 4,500 km2, 75% of which is marshland in the western part and limestone in the eastern part towards Playa Larga and Playa Giron. You’ll be able to see quite a few animals, including the world’s smallest hummingbirds, crocodiles for the lucky ones, and crabs so abundant in the marshes that you’ll find them on the evening menu. At the seaside, the crystal-clear waters contrast with the limestone rock to offer absolutely magnificent colors in the sunshine.
We’ll take you on a tour of two facets of the region: cenotes and marshes. Even more than elsewhere in Cuba, we recommend that you have your own car for greater flexibility, or take a cab to discover this beautiful region.
SOMMAIRE DE L'ARTICLE :
| RIO HATIGUANICO SWAMP
Let’s start by exploring the swamps. Rio Hatiguaneco is located about 1 hour from Playa Larga on the edge of the A1 national highway heading to Havana from Playa Larga. As everything is simple in Cuba, don’t forget that you must first buy your tickets at the “Oro Negro Jaguay” petrol station located at km 141 of the A1 freeway, just outside the commune of Australia. Once you’ve approached Rio Hatiguanico, don’t hesitate to take the 3/4 km track to the start area.
Aboard a boat led by a park guide, you’ll gradually make your way into the marsh via the Canal de los Patos. You’ll appreciate the tranquility of the surroundings and discover the marsh vegetation home to mangroves and the Royal palm, Cuba’s national tree. The tour takes you to the source of the Rio Hatiguanico, where you can take a refreshing dip in the crystal-clear water, home to small freshwater turtles. You can observe many species of birds, including vultures, and crocodiles more or less hidden on the banks depending on the time of year. As always, remember that animal life is busier in the early morning than mid-afternoon, so get up at dawn to give yourself a better chance of spotting them.
Practical info:
- Bring mosquito repellent (especially in August), as we’re in a swamp.
- Ticket to be purchased in advance for 15 CUC/pers.
- Tour duration: approx. 1 hour
- Guide in Spanish, English and French.
➡️ Book the Zapata Marshes excursion here. For those who love nature and want to discover this area of cuba from Havana, I invite you to book this excursion to Zapata Marsh National Park, the the most important wetland in the Caribbean and one of the most important ecosystems in Latin America.
| ENIGMA OF THE ROCKS
A hike among iguanas and cenotes. Located 1 or 2 km from Playa Giron on the Playa Larga road, the “Enigma de las rocas” is also a must-see in the region. Accompanied by a park guide, you’ll gain a better understanding of the area and how the cenotes, specific to regions with limestone geology, were created.
He’ll explain how termite societies work, how the 4 species of crabs that swarm here live, and he’ll try to show you the endemic iguana, the birds and the small snakes and lizards that inhabit the area. The luckiest among you may see crocodiles approaching certain marshy areas. Towards the end of the 2 km route, you can stop for a swim in a cenote. And how can you resist taking a dip in water at 22-24 degrees, surrounded by crabs and freshwater turtles in a lush, peaceful setting?
A beautiful little find still untouched by mass tourism. Make the most of it.
Practical info:
- book the day before with your guide
- Price: 15 CUC/pers and free for children under 12.
- Distance: 2 km
- Duration: 1h30
- Bring mosquito repellent (especially in August)
- Guide in Spanish and English
| THE FISH CAVE
Less atypical but more accessible because it’s free, you can also visit the “Cueva de los peces” halfway between Playa Larga and Playa Giron, on the roadside. You’ll find cenotes here, where you can swim, but without the charm of a nature excursion. When we were there in August, the cave was closed for renovation and cleaning, so it’s possible that it’s often the same at this time of year. Find out more before you go. Beyond these discoveries, the other attraction of the region is its seaside, and just opposite this cenote is a popular snorkeling and diving spot.
| THE HOUSE OF COLIBRIS
Let’s check out the Zunzúnn hummingbird house in Spanish. In the small village of Palpite there’s a little hidden house that’s well known to the locals. In fact, a couple in their fifties set up small pipettes of water and sugar in trees in their garden, along with photos to raise awareness of bird protection among travelers. This gives you the chance to see hummingbirds up close, including the world’s smallest hummingbird. Admission is free, but if you leave a small donation of 1 CUC per person, the man will be very happy. It’s even more fun if you’ve got kids, because you can really see them fly right before your eyes.
| PLAYA LARGA’S PRIVATE BEACHES
Playa Larga’s waters are crystal-clear, but the limestone rock is very uncomfortable to lay your towel on. That’s why you’ll find private beaches with all-inclusive day access. The prettiest beach is “Caleta Buena ” with its small natural seaside pools and more lush vegetation. The other beach « Perdiz Point » with the advantage of being closer to Playa Larga and Playa Giron and boasting the best dive club on the coast. Beware: during August, these beaches are very popular with Cubans, and are packed as soon as they open! You should also know that Cubans never go anywhere without their speakers to listen to Reggaeton, loud… very loud!
Another option is to stop by the side of the road and find a convenient spot. In fact, you can see small paths leading to coves or beaches where no tourists or Cubans stop. To do this, you need a car. Before arriving at Punta Perdiz, there’s a small deserted beach in full sunshine and just beyond Punta Perdiz, there’s a small cove on the right where you can find yourself alone.
Practical info:
| PUNTA PERDIZ | CALETA BUENA |
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Good Plan: In August, you’ll want to swim in the wild creeks from morning until early afternoon, as the weather changes after that. There are more waves, the sea gets very rough and there’s more wind! Not ideal for swimming and photography.
| BRITO SALT FLATS LAGOON
We didn’t have time to visit it, but you should know that 25km from Playa Larga, there’s a 70,000-hectare nature reserve, a saltworks which is home to pelicans, migratory birds from November to May, herons, ibises, pink flamingos… It’s the perfect place with children to stroll along the edge of the marshes. You have to get up very early to see them!
| PLAYA LARGA & PLAYA GIRON
Playa Larga lies at the head of the Bay of Pigs. The water is less beautiful here, as a river flows into it with its sediments, but it’s a town with more hotel capacity than Playa Giron. The city has no interests other than its location. For dinner, we recommend the small village of Palpite, 2km away. Here you’ll find roadside restaurants offering more generous and less expensive cuisine. Enjoy the delights of the region and sample mixed dishes featuring crabs in sauce, lobster, grilled fish and shrimp. A treat at a low price (approx. 8-10 CUC/person).
Practical info:
- Watch out for mosquitoes in the evenings during the summer months, when they can invade (especially in August).
- They go out from 7am to 9am and from 8pm to 9.30pm, I’m not lying to you! They’re really tough and the bites are extremely itchy, so make sure you wear light, loose-fitting clothes (they like dark colors) to cover your legs and arms, as they’ll get through your clothes.
- The locals often told us to avoid dining on the beach, to eat before sunset, to put repellent everywhere and to choose places with a fan.
Practical information Playa Larga
- Count on about 5h30 drive from Viñales to reach Playa Larga
- Distance Playa Larga -> Cienfuegos : 70km or 1h15 drive.
- The August is vacation month for Cubans, so the beaches and coves are often dirty with litter strewn everywhere.
- If you’re lucky enough to see a pretty sunset in August (they are often more beautiful from December to March as it takes less weight), head to the plage de los Cocos as we didn’t find Playa Giron pretty at all!
- Watch out for your tires on the road to Playa Larga, as depending on the season and especially in summer, crabs cross the roads and can puncture your car tires with their erect claws. A little anecdote: this is the busiest time of year for garages…
As in most of Cuba, you’ll find all kinds of casas, ranging from 5 CUC a night to around 40 CUC a night. The price difference comes down to service, quality of welcome, breakfast, location, cleanliness of rooms… During my trip to Cuba, I selected some very pretty casas in Playa Larga that I’ll keep preciously for my customers who have booked a trip to Cuba with our agency.
Below are a few addresses of casas that have been recommended to me for their friendly, welcoming Cubans, cleanliness and generous cuisine:
The Playa Larga area is the best place to eat seafood such as delicious lobster, crab or prawns at unbeatable prices.
- A Playa Giron, we tested the El Cocodrilo restaurant
- A Palpite, the little village next door, we’ve always eaten superbly. lobster, from 10 CUC to 15 CUC, crab from 6 CUC to 8 CUC. It’s often possible to order seafood mix with lobster, crab, fish fillet and shrimp for 8 CUC to 15 CUC per person. We recommend 2 restaurants, the On D’ Cuba at the beginning of the main avenue as you leave Playa Larga. The welcome is very warm and the food very good. The restaurant takes the cake El Ranchon where you’ll be welcomed by Alfredo and his family. It’s hidden away on a perpendicular off the main avenue, on the first street on the left when you arrive from Playa Larga.
On Playa Larga beach, you’ll find plenty of terrace bars belonging to the casas.
- Rio Hataguanico swamp: 15 CUC/p
- Enigma of the Rocks: 15 CUC/p
- La Cueva de los peces: free
- Private beaches of Caleta Buena and Punta Perdiz: 15 CUC/p
Sachez que Cuba, n’est pas une destination bon marché et qu’il vous faudra un petit budget pour visiter l’île. Les prestataires avec qui je collabore pour vous créer du voyage sur mesure sont triés sur le volet et choisis pour leur éthique et leur professionnalisme. Ils ne font pas de tourisme de masse ! Ils vous seront proposés dans le devis, uniquement sur la réservation d’un voyage.
Pour toute demande de devis et un voyage sur mesure pour découvrir de manière authentique Cuba, contactez moi par email à contact@mademoiselle-voyage.fr. Je vous invite à lire la rubrique voyage sur mesure où je vous présente mon activité d’agence de voyage agrée.
Pour tous ceux qui veulent y aller en août, il faut vous y prendre à l’avance, je commence souvent les réservations pour mes clients à partir de janvier . Cela me permet d’avoir du choix en terme pour les casas particulares et de trouver rapidement une bonne voiture.
Nous vous invitons à lire également tous nos autres articles sur Cuba:
- La Havane: 9 choses à faire dans la capitale
- Baracoa, le secret le mieux gardé de Cuba
- La région de Viñales et les Cayos Levisa et Jutias
- Le guide pratique pour tout savoir avant de partir à Cuba
- Que voir et que faire à Cienfuegos
- Trinidad la perle coloniale et ses cascades
- Santiago de Cuba, berceau de l’identité cubaine
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