Les Canalous | We tested river cruising with friends in Saône-et-Loire and Burgundy

Wondering what a river cruise is like and if it’s right for you? We’ve tested this slow-tourism mode of travel, which suffers from an outdated image. A look back at our week-long experience in Saône et Loire and Burgundy.

 

The Covid-19 crisis has had the merit of introducing us to a new way of traveling that was previously totally unknown to us.
At a time when tourism is claiming to be more local and slower-paced, it’s aboard a pleasure boat rented from the ” The Canalous » that we discovered part of the Burgundy Franche-Comte region on a route that took us from Pontallier sur Saône to Louhans, where we discovered the Burgundy vineyards, the region’s gastronomy and the bucolic landscapes along the banks of the Seille.

 

| CANALOUS PRESENTATION

Les Canalous is a family-run business based in Digoin, a French commune in the Saône-et-Loire department in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region. A pioneer in river tourism, it came up with the idea of renting out pleasure boats some 40 years ago to exploit the canals, which were being used less and less with the development of freight transport in France.

This makes the company one of the market leaders, with a fleet of boats that it builds in part itself. It’s this more family-oriented, less mass-tourism feel that appealed to us for this collaboration. In June 2021, they appeared on the m6 program capital on these new modes of travel that have emerged since COVID and are of growing interest to the French. River cruises were often booked by foreigners to discover our beautiful France.

 

| WHO CAN BENEFIT FROM RIVER CRUISING?

When you think of cruising, the first thing that comes to mind is a big boat with an elderly clientele, entertainment on the foredeck and meals at set times. In short, we inevitably have a bit of a “Love Boat” image ». That’s true to some extent if you choose the wrong cruise, but nothing like that on this type of cruise, which, as you can imagine, is totally out of character for us!

Les Canalous offers boats for hire without a license, for vacations with family or friends where you can navigate on French waterways (VNF), i.e. on rivers, canals or stretches of river. Under current legislation, boats under 15 metres in length can be sailed without a licence, with a maximum speed of 10km/h.
It’s an experience on calm waterways that we offer, especially in summer when water levels aren’t too high.

River cruising is aimed at customers who feel they can navigate and manage, but rest assured, we had no experience. With a little common sense and cool-headedness when maneuvering, you’ll do just as well as we did, as handling remains fairly straightforward.

The canalous always give you a debriefing when you arrive, and take the time to show you how the various equipment works, and to introduce you to steering and docking maneuvers.

 

| HOW OLD DO YOU HAVE TO BE TO GO RIVER CRUISING?

For those wondering about the difficulty of bringing children on this type of cruise, we would advise you to do so with children able to follow instructions (from around 5 years of age) and to wear life jackets when passing through certain locks.
On the barge we had, an outside gangway ran all the way around the boat, and our friends’ 6-year-old daughter, who was with us, was forbidden to go there alone when we were sailing. The foredeck and interior of the boat were spacious enough for her to move around. Once docked, you’ll need to keep a close eye on things!

For newborns (0-1 year), no worries in our opinion. As they don’t walk or gambol just a few steps away, they can be safely placed on the pontoon or in the cabin.

On the other hand, for children who can walk but are not yet old enough to understand safety rules, it’s up to you to decide whether there are enough of you to keep an eye on them, or whether you’ll be on the alert all the time.

Keep in mind that river cruising is a real opportunity to have a great time with family and friends.

 

 

| BOAT SELECTION AND COST OF A RIVER CRUISE

 

• Which boat to choose?

Several types of boats are offered on their site. For our part, we tested the F barge in the “classic” range, which offered a truly satisfying level of comfort and a certain charm that didn’t leave us unmoved!

This is a fairly large boat, 15 meters long, with 6 berth cabins and 3 bathrooms for a total of 10-12 people.
The classic barges are certainly more spacious for the outside area with the large bow pontoon, but also inside with a large table and a nice kitchen equipped for meals: 2 refrigerators, an oven, a sink, hotplates, crockery and cooking utensils. (no microwaves, tupperware or dishwashers on board).

As far as this boat is concerned, our cabins were well equipped: very comfortable bedding with double or single beds, but the hanging lockers were a little small but functional. So don’t start out with too much on your plate, or you’ll be walking all over yourself. Think more about taking a large travel bag, easily folded and flattened under the bed, once emptied. Similarly, when it comes to what to take with you, you often wear the same things, but make sure you bring a Kway for chilly evenings.

Tarpons are also very common in the Canalous fleet. They have plenty of space inside, but a little less outside, depending on the model.

 

 

• How much does a river cruise cost?

Les Canalous offers a range of boat sizes for 2 to 12 people. If you’ve never done this type of cruise before, we advise you to leave with at least 4 adults. Lock passages and moorings require the captain to be assisted in his maneuvers.

The price of a river cruise is highly variable and depends on the size, number of cabins, period, length of stay as well as the type of boat chosen: access, low cost, classic, premium or owner. So there’s something for every taste and budget. The styles of boats are not the same either: you can find more outdated but functional boats as well as more modern and recent ones.

If, like us, you choose barge F at the same time as we left, i.e. at the end of May 2021, it costs 3219€ per weekne from May 22 to May 29, 2021. At the height of summer, you’ll be looking at €4,600 a week.

The best thing to do is to visit the Canalous website to see the rates for yourself and request a quote from the base you have selected. All the information is on their website here.

 

Then, be aware that you will have several additional expense items not included in the tariff namely:

• Fuel which will depend on how far you’ve traveled (boats aren’t too energy-hungry).
• Mooring fees. Each marina has its own rates for mooring, water supply, electricity and tourist tax. For example, we paid €11/night to moor the boat in the small port of La Truchère, and €24/night for the port of Chalons-Sur-Saône. When you arrive in port, go to the Harbour Master’s Office to deal with the formalities.
• Boat insurance: the cost is 159€, and as we had little sailing experience, we chose to take it out because we weren’t covered by our credit card insurance. It’s up to you to decide, but we think it’s useful.
• There are also options such as: bike rental, wood-fired barbecue, household box with cleaning kit (tea towels, dishwashing detergent, sponge….), bathroom linen (sheets and towels) which are not included in the price. River cruising is a house on the water, so you can take all that with you too.
• A cleaning deposit 215€ will be required for this type of boat.
• Bail boat (€1,200) must be paid by credit card on the day of boarding.

All this information will be clearly specified at the time of booking and can also be found on their website.

 

• Boat ranges

Canalous classify their boats into 5 ranges:

• Premium: more comfortable, better equipped and recent (freezer, dishwasher, TV, DVD players, etc.). Concierge service available to organize excursions and transfers to train stations and airports. The boats are also equipped with thrusters to facilitate manoeuvring.
• Owner: boats bought by private individuals, renting them on a year-round basis.
• Classique: a range of recent, well-equipped barges offering spaces that let you take full advantage of the outdoors, with sliding sunroofs in particular. There are barges, houseboats and small Tarpon-type vessels. Some boats are older, but it’s good value for money.
• Access: it’s a great initiative to promote inclusion. Accessible boats for people with reduced mobility
• Low Cost: as the name suggests, this is the most accessible range in terms of fares, with older boats and services reduced to a minimum to make river tourism accessible to all budgets.

 

| CHOOSE YOUR ITINERARY, STARTING POINT AND ROUTE

Once you’ve defined your budget and chosen your boat range, you’ll need to define your route.

The Canalous offer a range of itineraries on their website, covering several French and European regions (Ireland, England, Italy, Germany, Portugal…) from their departure and arrival bases. If this is a first for you, go for a French destination to get to grips with the habits and customs of sailing.

If you choose to follow the canals, you’ll discover some very fine engineering structures, as most of these routes were built in the 15th century to facilitate the transport of goods between regions, before seeing their use curtailed by the arrival of the train at the end of the 19th century and then trucks in the course of the 20th century.

You’ll be amazed at what the men of that era were able to create, leaving us a river heritage that shows us a France we don’t necessarily take the time to see anymore. But you should know that the canals require you to pass through many locks. A very pleasant experience that can become redundant when a new lock comes along every 20 minutes, with waiting times that can be long in high summer and lots of boats alongside you.

The river routes offer more bucolic landscapes. The tracks are more natural (inevitably), which adds another charm to your trip. The bends between the fields follow one another, the vegetation becomes more abundant on the banks and it’s a very soothing sensation that you can feel as the water flows by.
It’s also the playground of a much larger fauna and flora that you can take the time to observe. We came across swans, herons, buzzards, egrets and many other species whose names we didn’t necessarily know. You don’t always have to go far to (re)discover wildlife, because at this speed, the boat is a real opportunity to take the time to observe what surrounds us.
On the rivers, there are also far fewer locks and many of them are still manual, adding a playful touch to their passage. In the end, this was our favorite part of the river cruise.

One of the keys to the success of your cruise will also be to estimate sailing times. You can get an idea by visiting navigation simulators, including the VNF simulator.

Once you’re on the boat, all you have to do is follow the detailed logbook with directions, navigation maps and descriptions of each stage.

 

| IDEAS FOR A RIVER CRUISE ITINERARY

 

Les Canalous offers a variety of routes. However, please note that nothing is mandatory and you are completely free to move around as you wish. Your only requirement is, of course, to return to your arrival point on time to return the boat.

For our part, we chose to depart from Pontailler-sur-Saône in Côte d’Or and travel to Louhans in Saône-et-Loire. The aim of our route was to be able to navigate rivers for the natural scenery and to stop off to discover the Burgundy vineyards in Beaune. Here is an example of a possible route that includes all our stops:

 

•  Days 1 & 2 – Pontallier-sur-Saône – Chalons-sur-Saône

Pontallier-sur-Saône is a tiny village with little to offer other than its location on the banks of the Saône and a port where Canalous have established a base.
As we travel down the river, we pass by the banks of Auxonne town, Napoleon Bonaparte’s military stronghold, for a leisurely stroll, then continue our journey to the port of Saint-Jean-de-Losne.
From here, France’s largest marina, you can quickly reach the Rhône-Rhine Canal towards the Jura and Montbéliard via the banks of the Doubs, or join the Burgundy Canal towards Dijon.

For our part, we are heading towards Chalons-sur-Saône with the aim of reaching the vineyards of Burgundy and its climates classified as UNESCO World Heritage Sites to enjoy a wealth of culinary discoveries.
This will require a second day of sailing to reach the port of Chalons-sur-Saône in the city center (remember to arrive early in high season or reserve a spot).

The advantage of sailing along the banks of the Saône is that there are fewer locks to pass through and you can enjoy beautiful natural views of the riverbanks, which are lined with oak trees, reeds, and willows. You may even see swans or herons taking flight. The banks of the Saône are also a favorite spot for nature lovers and fishermen who come here to enjoy the green surroundings.

 

 

 

DISCOVER THE TERRITORY OF THE CÔTE D’OR AND THE PAYS BEAUNOIS

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• Jour 3 & 4 – Beaune and its vineyards

During this cruise, we spent two full days exploring the Côte d’Or region. We chose to discover Beaune, the Beaune region, and its vineyards, of course. After mooring in the port of Chalons-sur-Saône for three nights, we headed for Beaune by train.
And that’s the advantage of having city bikes on board our boat, because with just a few pedal strokes, we quickly arrived at the Chalon train station and headed for Beaune after only a 15-minute train ride (regular departures every day for about €5/person).

 

BEAUNE

Beaune is a very pretty little town known for being home to some of France’s finest wine houses, as it is nestled in the heart of the vineyards and offers real cultural and gastronomic attractions. We really enjoyed cycling around and exploring its charming cobbled streets. What are the town’s attractions?

 

 

• The Hospices de Beaune or The Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune
  

This is the city’s main architectural attraction. The history of the Hospices de Beaune began in 1443 and ended in 1980. This building marked the beginning of the adventure of medicine in France and now houses a museum rich in educational content, allowing us to appreciate the progress that medicine has made. The hospices were responsible for providing public assistance to the poor, the elderly, and the infirm. Today, it is one of Burgundy’s architectural gems and one of France’s most prestigious historical monuments. This former medieval hospital foundation is remarkable and unique for its Gothic architecture and its polychrome roofs, which are inseparable from Burgundy with their beautiful colorful patterns. This place needs no commentary, just admiration.

→ Admission fee: €12.00 per person. Reduced rates are available for students (€9.00 per person) and for young people aged 10 to 17 (€5.00 per person). Admission is free for children under 10.

→ Guided tours of the Hospices de Beaune are available. Admission costs €14.00 per person. Admission is free for children under 12 years old.

 

 

• Beaune city center

The town center of Beaune can be explored on foot along the river. Visit the Basilica of Notre-Dame, stroll through the narrow streets to the clock tower and then the Burgundy Wine Museum before heading to Place Carnot, where you will find two shops showcasing Burgundy’s culinary specialties:

 

→ The Mulot & Petitjean shop is famous for its nonnettes, a local specialty made from gingerbread filled with orange (the most well-known flavor) but also available in many other flavors. You will also find products made from blackcurrants, a berry with highly beneficial properties that is very popular in Burgundy cuisine.

 

 

→ The cheese shop « Alain Hess »

A cheese shop turned grocery store in a pleasant, absolutely enchanting setting, taking you back 60 to 70 years, with the only downside being that you’ll want to buy everything. This is where you’ll find the “délice de Pommard,” a fresh cheese topped with mustard seeds from the famous Fallot mustard factory. Don’t miss it, it’s so good!

 

 

→ The Mustard Factory Edmont Fallot

When you think of Burgundy, you think of mustard, which is often associated with Dijon but has its roots in the Beaune region. The Fallot mustard factory is the last artisanal, family-run business in France that has kept its production site in historic buildings in the heart of the city. You can choose to take a guided tour of the premises (approximately 1.5 hours and €10/adult; $8/child) or simply stop by the shop to stock up on this condiment that we all love.
This company offers a wide range of flavored mustards that are perfect for making delicious marinades and vinaigrettes. As the epicureans that we are, we stocked up and it’s a delight.

 

 

• The Maison Champy and the climates of Burgundy
  

Now let’s get down to business ☺️  and embark on a journey of discovery through the wines of Burgundy, starting with the oldest wine house in Beaune, the beautiful Maison Champy.
With three centuries of history, Maison Champy owns 21 hectares of vineyards on the Côte de Beaune, notably in Pernand-Vergelesses. Based in the heart of Beaune, the premises were completely renovated a few years ago, preserving the architecture inspired by the Eiffel school. This is where the 15th-century Cloche aging cellars and its collection of vintages dating back to 1885 are located. It is therefore in a place worthy of the reputation of the great wines of Burgundy, listed as a historic monument in Beaune, that the house welcomes you to discover its wines.

“In Burgundy, when we talk about climate, we don’t look up at the sky, we look at the land, because climate means a wine-growing terroir that combines plots, grape varieties, and expertise.”

 

The first thing to understand about this vineyard is its climates, which have recently been classified as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Your tasting experience at Maison Champy will therefore begin with a description of the vineyard and all its specific characteristics.

Several experiences are available (by reservation), including a “terroir” tasting combining the discovery of five wines (two whites and three reds) from the house’s ‘villages’ and “premier cru” appellations (€25/person).
For connoisseurs and wine lovers, you can also enjoy the “prestige” tasting, which includes five “1er cru” and “grand cru” wines (€55/person).
Children can even enjoy their own tasting of artisanal syrups, just like the grown-ups. A real treat for epicureans who love fine, balanced, and complex wines.

 

 

• The Domaine Besancenot

The Burgundy vineyards are home to both large wine houses and independent winegrowers. While it is wonderful to taste prestigious wines from the most renowned vineyards, it is also very interesting to find producers offering wines that are excellent value for money, as not everyone can afford to spend €40 to €150 per bottle. After all, you are in Burgundy!
And it is often here that you can find wonderful surprises and discover little gems to take home with you.

Domaine Besancenot is a family business based in Beaune since 1850. It offers regional, village, and premier cru wines.
The welcome is very warm and we found a very good Bourgogne Aligoté, a Chorey les Beaunes white that recently won the “Féminalise” competition, and two Beaunes premier cru wines with beautiful aromatic complexity, power, and good length on the palate.

If you’re looking for a good compromise and a beautiful cellar, we recommend it without hesitation.

 

 

• Electric bike ride along the “vineyard trail”

 

Head for the vineyards, a magnificent route in Burgundy, between dry stone walls, small roads, and prestigious vineyards.

We set off on super-comfortable electric bikes for a half-day ride to the pretty village of Meursault, passing through Volney and Pommard. These are villages with prestigious names where you can also plan tastings or simply enjoy the vineyard landscape.
When we went there at the end of May, the vineyard was not yet in leaf, but it was the time when poppies were blooming along the edges of the plots. Each season has its own charm, of course.

Bourgogne Évasion (@activetoursfrance) offers classic bikes as well as excellent electric bikes, allowing everyone to enjoy the ride. If you have children, you can also find seats and cargo bikes that can be attached to one of the parents’ bikes, ideal for young children.

I recommend the electric bike ride, as it makes the 22 kilometers from Beaune to Santenay easy to cover. You will pass through charming wine-growing villages and prestigious appellations such as Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, and Santenay. Nothing less!

This bike route is not difficult and has a slight incline. I highly recommend this outing if you are taking a river cruise in Burgundy. If you really want to make the most of your day and take the time to taste wines, you can even embark on an 81-kilometer bike ride, starting from Beaune, then connecting Santenay and Nolay, and arriving in Dijon.

 

 

• Restaurants tested in Beaune

 

Because it’s always difficult to know which restaurant to choose, here are our two tried and tested recommendations in Beaune:

→ Le Belena

This brasserie on the outskirts of town offers excellent value for money with a well-crafted daily menu. Delicious flavors, a touch of originality, and a very affordable wine list. Two beautiful terraces, one overlooking the small Madeleine square next door. A sure bet!

→ Le Monge
Located on the square of the same name, Le Monge is a restaurant in the heart of the city. It offers a varied menu featuring traditional Burgundy dishes such as the delicious beef bourguignon and andouillette with Beaune mustard. It wasn’t necessarily love at first sight, but the Burgundy dishes were very well done.

We reserved one evening aboard our boat for tasting local products. It was an opportunity to sample the delights of Pommard wine, Trou du Cru cheese, specialties purchased at the market such as truffle products (Burgundy truffles are quite renowned), sausage, wine, and more.

 

 

• Days 5 & 6 – Navigation on the Seille River

After a brief visit to the town of Chalons-sur-Saône, where we enjoyed a quick coffee and pastry on the square, we boarded our boat again to continue our journey. We headed for Tournus and then La Truchère at the junction with the Seille, a river navigable for 39 km between Louhans and La Truchère. This tributary of the Saône marks the start of a bucolic journey surrounded by nature. Take the opportunity to observe the many birds and animals resting along this beautiful river.

 

 

→ La Truchère Nature Reserve

After a very pleasant night in the peaceful little port of La Truchère and a superb sunset accompanied by flocks of storks taking flight, we begin our penultimate day with a visit to the La Truchère/Ratenelle nature reserve.

Armed with our city bikes and binoculars, we set off for the Fouget pond, where many species of birds nest, to try to spot a few before going to see the local geological curiosity of the sand dunes located on the other side of the D933 road.

We returned to the boat for a two-hour cruise to Cuisery. The cruise was very pleasant because this section of our route was very winding and narrower, surrounded by fields and meadows where cows seemed to live peacefully. All this adds to the pleasure of sailing on the Seille, especially in good weather. What’s more, all the way to Louhans, the locks are no longer electric but manual, which adds a certain charm that immediately comes into play when you have to close the valves and then open the lock gates in a specific order.

 

 

→ Cuisery

Before ending our cruise, we make one last stop in the small town of Cuisery. The small port has a beautiful grassy bank where we quickly set up our tables for a bucolic lunch under the trees by the water. Cuisery is one of France’s eight “cities of books.” You will find a number of bookshops selling new and second-hand books, as well as a small natural history museum, the Eden Center.

When it comes to restaurants, there are several options available, but we highly recommend Le Bistrot Italien. It has a warm atmosphere, a sheltered and beautifully decorated back terrace, and, above all, delicious pizzas made with love. Be sure to make a reservation, as the place can fill up quickly.

 

 

→ Louhans

The final stop on our journey. Louhans is a small town and regional capital of Bresse Louhannaise, located 3-4 hours by boat from Cuisery. And when you say Bresse, you say gastronomy. Indeed, the region is focused on agriculture, with its famous Bresse chickens, snails, and freshwater fish. To sample all of this, the best place to go is undoubtedly the restaurant “Le Grill” located on the banks of the Seille River.
Apart from that, you can stroll along the main street with its medieval arcades, where you can stop for ice cream or a glass of fine local wine from the Mâconnais region.

 

We hope this article has inspired you to try a river cruise in France with your family or friends. This region is ideal for this type of travel, allowing you to enjoy slow tourism and rediscover our beloved France.

Is there a part of France you would like to explore by boat? Before you set off, take a look at all our ideas for getaways in France.