This is one of the highlights of your trip to Cuba. Nestled in the middle of the Viñales Natural Park, a Unesco World Heritage Site in an atypical, verdant landscape surrounded by mogotes, Viñales is a town that’s sure to win you over.
A must-see stop on our trip, Viñales was a town we were looking forward to. We were looking forward to seeing the great valleys, the ox-drawn carts, the cigars, the horse-drawn carriages and everything else that reminded us of the tobacco route. You won’t be disappointed by the trip, as they’re everywhere. There’s nothing folkloric about it – on the contrary, it’s still part of their daily lives: we’ve arrived in Cuban cowboy territory. Viñales’ first impression, however, is that of a town with a well-developed tourist industry: well-appointed restaurants and bars, numerous casas particulares, souvenir stores… I’d be lying to you if I told you that you’d be arriving in an ultra-authentic place. But that doesn’t spoil the fun, because despite the crowds, the magic still works, provided you choose the right places and the right formulas.
Located two hours’ drive from Havana and an hour from the coast, the town is also the starting point for a day or two on the Cayo Jutias or Cayo Levisa. Here are the main points of interest and our feedback.
| VISIT VIÑALES NATIONAL PARK
- Take a horseback ride through the Mogotes
A visit to Viñales National Park is a must. The tours are done on horseback, which is a very appropriate way to visit and, in my opinion, very authentic given the importance of this animal in the daily lives of Cubans. A charming stroll in a verdant setting. There are 2 possible options:
- Starting from Viñales
- From the Los Jazmines lookout
The first route is the most popular with travellers, and therefore the most popular with tourists. It will take you for about 15 to 20 CUC/P on the other side of the valley, on a flatter part of the national park with a swim stop in a crowded artificial lake, while the second route takes you to higher vantage points with superb views over the valley and the Mogotes, these green limestone hills characterized by their rounded structure. On the other hand, having to get to the start in Los Jazmines by cab or car means there are far fewer people around and you’re more out of the way, which is far from unpleasant. In both cases, the route offers much of the same: lush green landscapes, wooden tobacco barns, meeting the locals. Only three plantations are authorized to receive tourists.
Visits are made to a tobacco kiln, and don’t be surprised if you don’t see any in August, as the drying process only lasts 3/4 months, from February to May. As for the tobacco fields, they are lined with September to February. We were there in August, so there was no tobacco in the fields or in the dryer, but that didn’t spoil the experience. You’ll see how cigars are made, with what type of leaves, how they’re rolled and you’ll be able to taste them. If you’d like to take some home as souvenirs, you can buy them on site. We paid 50 to 60 CUC for 20 cigars, but beware of prices: depending on your casa, you may also find them at around 30 CUC for 20 cigars. On the other hand, the quality of these was not up to scratch and we only realized this on our return… it’s one of the little scams we come across in this country.
The walk will then take you to a small farm where you’ll meet the farmers who run their farms in the heart of the national park. These have only been authorized to have this tourist activity of presenting their work since 2017. It’s quite interesting to discover the local plantations, pineapple, coffee, orange, avocado, mango, banana and you’ll be offered a taste of the famous local cocktail made from orange, honey, lemon, cane sugar and an artisanal rum. Once you’ve finished your aperitif, you’ll discover a superb panorama of the National Park valley worth its weight in gold.
Allow around 4 hours for horseback riding and 25 CUC/person. The price is higher from the mirador de los Jazmines, but the route is much more authentic and less touristy.
- Mirador de los Jazmines
If you want a beautiful souvenir of the region, I invite you to take a sunrise or sunset at the Mirador de los Jazmines, available free of charge. The easiest way is to get there early by car or cab. You arrive at an elevated viewpoint overlooking the Viñales valley, with a magical and unique 180-degree panorama. If your budget allows it, I advise you to stay at 3* Horizontes Los Jasmines hotel that I was able to visit and nestled right next to the viewpoint, rather convenient for those early morning wake-ups. Balconies overlook the valley. Not far away, you’ll also find the Balcon del Valle Viewpoint which is accessible for a completely different view. Go to the Restaurant Balcón del Valle Viewpoint for a coffee.
- The Cueva Del Indio caves
For lovers of caving and, above all, rock formations, there are several caves to visit in the Viñales area. In any case, you’ll need a means of transport to get there. The most interesting seems to be the Cuevadel Indio, according to the feedback from travellers we’ve come across, as we didn’t have the time to visit it and it wasn’t our priority. For 5 CUC/p, you can take a boat trip and observe the rock formations. It’s a nice way to cool off in the Cuban heat, but it doesn’t seem to be a must-see because the cave has a reputation for being touristy.
We were also not sold on the Palenque de Los Cimarrones cave, which doubles as a bar and disco. There is an indoor restaurant, open only for lunch, with live Afro-Cuban music. We didn’t find it of any major interest, so we didn’t go as it also seemed touristy.
Finally, you can discover Cuba’s largest cave, Grotte Santo Tomas, a 20-minute drive from Viñales. A 1? hour guided tour costs 15 CUC/p. If you’ve never visited a cave before, this one is of particular interest. The Cueva de la Vaca is a free cave located not far from the town centre on the Finca Raul Reyes farm. These two caves are ideal for a short walk in the shade.
- Take a cooking class
Cubans have recently started offering cookery classes. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to take one, but it’s a great way to discover the local culinary culture. The menu includes the following dishes: – La ropa Vieja, made with beef (the same as for Burgundy), tomatoes, onions and spices – a real treat. Corn cakes. Not often seen in restaurants, this is one of the most typical Cuban dishes and very easy to make. – Sweet potato fries, banana tostones and fish croquettes can also be taught and you’ll be delighted to make them again for a Cuban tapas-style aperitif at home.
- Taste the famous Cuban barbecue
You shouldn’t leave Viñales without trying the famous Cuban barbecue at 12 CUC/ with soup as a starter and a choice of barbecued meat or fish + side dishes of 2 types of rice (white and moro, rice with black beans), red beans and pieces of roasted pumpkin. Drinks cost 1.50 CUC. On our return from the horse ride, we tried the restaurant Buenavista with its lovely view of the valley and the vultures that come to visit you. A very good address that I would recommend.
- Take part in the village fiesta
I don’t know if this festival, called Noche de Viñales, only takes place in August, but every Saturday evening the village festival takes place and it’s a gathering not to be missed. Right in the heart of Viñales, on one of the main thoroughfares in the town centre, which is closed for this event, tables and chairs are set up and people eat standing on the road. There are also stalls selling cuba libre, mojitos, daiquiris and other local drinks, all in a Cuban atmosphere with the sounds of salsa, bachata and merengue. It’s a great way to dance with the locals and have a great time.
Practical information Viñales
As in most of Cuba, you’ll find all kinds of casas, ranging from 5 CUC a night to around 50 CUC a night. The price difference comes down to service, quality of welcome, breakfast, location, cleanliness of rooms… During my trip to Cuba, I selected some very pretty casas in Viñales that I’m keeping carefully for my customers who have booked a trip to Cuba with our agency.
Below are a few addresses of casas that have been recommended to me for their friendly, welcoming Cubans, cleanliness and generous cuisine:
You’ll find plenty of restaurants in the heart of the city with their ratings on tripadvisor. You’ll find that restaurants on perpendicular streets cost less than those on Viñales’ main street. By wandering around and on recommendation, we found the following restaurants:
- Los Narra located in a small garden: main course 12 CUC, dessert 1.5 CUC and drinks approx. 2 CUC
- restaurant Buenavista for Cuban barbecue
- If you’d like to meet an exceptional character full of kindness in Viñales, head for the restaurant Alberto Vitamina, away from the town center (Section Chile route de Puerto Esperanza (the road that takes you to the Indian cave). You’ll need a car to get there, but the welcome is truly extraordinary and the food renowned. You can visit his tobacco drying room, his tobacco plantation and his earthen oven where he cooks his pigs over a wood fire using the old-fashioned method. Enjoy delicious Cuban cuisine.
- In the center of Viñales is el Jardin del Arte Sano, hidden in a small patio. Perfect for dinner.
- Outside Viñales, we were also recommended the Restaurant the Carreta de San Vicente renowned for its generous portions and for its mutton ragout with red wine!
- El Paraiso Agroecological Farmwith a beautiful view of Viñales
- The restaurant Cubar et El Olivo is also well known for its location and apparently delicious food.
- Cocina del Medio (Salvador Cisneros) and La Berenjena.
- In the center of Viñales is el Jardin del Arte Sano, hidden in a small patio. Perfect for a drink
- Bar the 3 jacks for its cocktails and tapas (Salvador Cisneros)
- Mojito House (North Adela Azcuy Street)
- Cubar (#55 Salvador Cisneros)
- Lounge Bar
- Moreno’s Bar
- Horseback riding 25 CUC/p
- Cueva del Indio Caves 5 CUC/p
- Grotte Santo Tomas 15 CUC/p
| LES CAYES AUTOUR DE VIÑALES
Viñales’ other strong point is that it’s only a 1-hour drive from Cayo Jutias and Levisa. And the question on everyone’s mind is which islands to go to.
- Levisa Key
Well, we’re sure Cayo Levisa we’ve set our sights on. The big difference between the two Cayos is that one is open to Cubans and the other is not. And that’s why we chose Cayo Levisa. Let me explain, Cubans have two shortcomings: firstly, they only know how to listen to reggaeton when the sound is cranked up to the max, with no regard for the people around them, which isn’t very restful when you’re relaxing on an idyllic beach. Secondly, they have no education in the management of their waste, which they dump openly on the beach and even in the water. Suffice to say, it’s not the kind of landscape we like to spend our day in. So we chose an unspoilt location. The island of Cayo Levisa, a 30-minute boat ride from the coast, is a small paradise worth preserving.
Did you know? Cayo Levissa is an island off-limits to Cubans except for those who work there, simply because in Fidel Castro’s day, the island was the departure point for fleeing Cuba to the USA. We’ve heard that the island may soon open up to Cubans, so we’ll keep an eye on that!
White sand so fine it caresses your feet, translucent waters at 31 degrees, sunbathing, dried palm leaf umbrellas and small, well-appointed beachside gardens – that’s what awaits you at Cayo Levisa. As the Cubans would say, the waters of Cayo Levisa are the stuff of dreams. “Sopa“. For us, it will remain one of the most beautiful beaches in the country and a truly peaceful and relaxing day. You can visit by the day, or choose to spend a minimum of two days, with a one-night stay in the island’s only beautiful hotel Villa Cayo Levisa. It offers 3 types of accommodation juniors suite facing the sea, the tropical suite who are in the middle and at the back, further back the bungalows. From 150€ per night and it’s full all the time. It’s impossible to book on the spot, so get there early! Don’t forget your passport as you will be asked to do so when you collect your tickets from the ticket office at the port.
In the morning, around 11am, and in the afternoon around 4pm, Cubans come to sell you coco fraiches for 3 CUC. If you spend the day there, you can eat and drink in the island’s only restaurant. To give you an idea, a large bottle of water costs 3CUC. Try to get there before rush hour so you can enjoy the beach to yourself.
The sunbaths scattered free of charge all along the beach of this small island are quickly snapped up, but don’t panic, anyone can find one, as the beach is long and lined with canopy beds and deckchairs. If you really want to be alone in the world on this white-sand beach, once you’ve reached the main beach, turn right and walk along the sea for 20 minutes towards Punta Arena at the eastern tip of the island (follow the sign for this beach bar). The place is easily recognizable, with more driftwood and fewer people.
- Cayo Jutias
The beach of Jutias is also very beautiful from what I’ve been told, but the two big drawbacks are the state of the road to get there, which is really broken up, poorly maintained, winding, tiring and not at all pleasant, and the presence of mosquitoes, probably due to the abundance of these beautiful mangroves. As soon as the wind stops blowing, these beasts throw themselves at you. They can arrive by the hundreds, depending on the period. Most of the beach-goers are concentrated near the parking lot and the restaurant: you only have to walk 500m one way or the other to find yourself alone.
Practical information Viñales and the Cayos
From LA HAVANE
- Distance Viñales
From Havana by shared bus, allow a good two-hour drive and 20CUC/p
- Distance Pinar del Rio
From Havana, it’s a 3-hour drive.
From VIÑALES
- Distance Cayo Juitias
From Viñales, allow 1h30 to 2h by car on a fairly rough road, and 35 CUC/p by public bus
- Distance Cayo Levisa
From Viñales, allow 50 minutes to 1 hour’s drive to reach the port, then a 30-minute ferry ride each way and around 45 minutes on the return trip. Count 25 CUC/p round trip for the cost of the ferry only. Formulas are available in the center of Viñales at the “Infotur ” at 23 CUC/p for the ferry and a sandwich at lunchtime (without drinks) in the island’s only restaurant, or a 39 CUC/p package with shared bus + ferry + buffet lunch. Prices are virtually the same everywhere, give or take 2 CUC.
Ferry departure from Palma Rubia to Cayo Levisa à 10 am, 2 pm and 6 pm/ Back to Cayo Levisa in Palma Rubia at 9 a.m., 1 p.m. and 17h. Boat fare from hotel 35 CUC/p and 17.50 CUC/child.
Don’t be late as the boat leaves without you. If you arrive by car, you’ll have to pay the daily parking fee. Someone is waiting with a notebook.
I hope this article helps you prepare for your trip to Viñales.
Cuba is not a cheap destination and you will need a small budget to visit the island. If you would like a quote for the destination, please send your request to contact@mademoiselle-voyage.fr. For those of you who want to go in August, you’ll need to book well in advance. We often start booking for our clients in January, as this allows us to have a wide choice of casas and to find a car quickly.
We also invite you to read all our other articles on Cuba:
- Havana: 9 things to do in the capital
- Baracoa, Cuba’s best-kept secret
- Playa Larga, Playa Giron & and the Cienaga Zapata
- The practical guide to everything you need to know before leaving for Cuba
- What to see and do in Cienfuegos
- Trinidad, the colonial pearl and its waterfalls
- Santiago de Cuba, cradle of Cuban identity
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