12-day road trip in Hungary

Discover our 12-day family summer road trip in Hungary to explore this country we know little about but which has so much to offer.

Fresh from two weeks of absolutely spectacular Olympic Games in Paris, we arrived in Hungary in summer 2024 feeling a bit wistful at the end of such an enchanting chapter. We hoped to move on quickly so the feeling wouldn’t last too long, but the magic of the Games continued upon our arrival in Budapest with a special welcome committee for a Hungarian judoka on our flight, who had been deprived of a medal by one of our French athletes (cocorico).

Thus, to the chants of passionate Hungarian supporters, we begin our stay. Hunga-Hunga-Hungaria, here we are, ready to discover you more closely on a two-week road trip through Hungary, exploring your terroir, history, traditions, and people. A holiday-trip in a country with many assets sure to please many of you, where you’ll find that Hungary and France share cultural similarities linked to their common history, which reached its peak between the 18th and 20th centuries.

A country with a strong agricultural terroir (truffle growers, winemakers, foie gras producers, fruit growers…) reflected in its culinary culture. Hungarian cuisine is rich in varied soups, often meat-based dishes sometimes seasoned with Hungarian paprika, simple but flavorful desserts, and wines such as the famous Tokaji wine. The cuisine is increasingly represented in the Michelin Guide under “Bib Gourmand” for semi-gourmet restaurants with refined cooking at moderate prices, as well as a few starred establishments.

| Day 1 & 2 – Day 13 & 14: BUDAPEST

The first stop of this trip will also be our last. Indeed, Budapest is an ideal departure point to traverse the country east to west, given its central location. This capital, both modern, historic, and lively, boasts architecture strongly influenced by Art Nouveau and is truly worth seeing. Majestic thermal baths fed by waters up to 77ºC, museums, many green spaces, Budapest is one of the most beautiful European capitals with so much to offer that it would be too long to describe here. That’s why we dedicated an entire article to Budapest, where you can discover the city’s main attractions to help plan your stay.

➡️ Read our full article on what to do in Budapest in 4 days here

| Day 3: SZENTENDRE

After two days in Budapest, we decided to leave the city to explore the charming, picturesque town of Szentendre, on the banks of the Danube, just 35 minutes by train or 1h30 by boat from Budapest (20km).

By boat, depart at 10:30 AM from pier nº5 on the Danube bank at Vigadó tér 5 on Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. Book in advance to avoid disappointment, as there is only one boat per day. After 1h30 of sailing, you have 5 hours to discover the town before the return at 5 PM from Szentendre. A perfect day-trip option for those who like a relaxed pace.

➡️ Book the Szentendre cruise here

Alternatively, take a regional train from Batthyány tér station on a vintage 70s-80s train, slightly austere but charming, recalling the communist era. This option offers more flexibility with regular trains both ways throughout the day.

Once in Szentendre, enjoy its cobblestone streets, colorful houses, numerous art galleries, baroque churches, cozy cafés, and local crafts. Stroll the winding streets to appreciate the peaceful ambiance and the beauty of Hungary’s typical colorful architecture, and stop for coffee or lunch on a terrace to simply take your time. You can also visit the town’s small synagogue, the smallest in the country (open Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday from 11 AM to 5 PM).

You may also visit a charming small museum that complements your day in Szentendre, immersing you in the 1970s: the Retro Design Center. The visit lasts about an hour, with plenty of quirky gadgets and vintage vehicles.

Discover all Szentendre excursions by clicking one of the activities below. You can check availability and book quickly.

• Where to lunch in Szentendre

Near the main square, tucked in a small alley, you’ll find Aranysarkany Vendeglo, which we tried. They offer homemade local cuisine. Reserve if you want a shaded outdoor table; otherwise enjoy the interior dining room on the first floor, decorated in a traditional style. We had a delicious vegetable risotto and homemade lemonade. Highly recommended!

| Day 4 & 5: GÖDÖLLŐ AND THE TOKAJ REGION

After picking up our rental car in central Budapest, we head to the Tokaj region, famed for its winemaking.

➡️ Find the best car rental deal here with BSP auto

• Gödöllő Palace

On the way, we stop just 30 minutes from Budapest in Gödöllő to visit one of the Austro-Hungarian royal palaces, the favorite summer residence of Empress Elisabeth, more affectionately known as Sisi.

Given to the state in 1867 at the creation of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the empress, who disliked the court in Budapest, made it her favorite retreat. Originally Baroque, the palace later received additions, including its signature garden. After the empire’s fall, it was neglected until opened to the public thirty years ago.

It’s one of the most beautiful palaces in Hungary, though modest compared to the Buda Royal Palace in Budapest, as it wasn’t intended for hosting the court. Allow about 2 hours to tour the salons and gardens, and you may even catch a classical concert, adding grace to the site.

➡️ Book your Gödöllő palace excursion from Budapest here➡️ Book your guided tour of Gödöllő Palace here 

• Andrássy Residence & Spa

We then drive two hours to the Tokaj region, where we stay two nights at the lovely Andrássy Résidence & Spa. This 5-star hotel is a fantastic find. Fully renovated three years ago in a retro-chic style, it’s designed for families with dedicated spaces and menus. For just over €200 a night in high season, you get a spacious, well-equipped room with very comfortable bedding, half-board at the hotel’s semi-gourmet restaurant, and full access to the spa and wellness area.

The spa includes two outdoor pools (one shallow for young children), an indoor pool, a hot-water circuit with whirlpools, four saunas, one steam bath, three hydro-massage showers, a relaxation area, a fitness room, and a spa offering body treatments and massages. The perfect place for a relaxation day between cellar visits. It was ideal for enjoying the Tokaj region.

➡️ Book your stay at Andrássy Résidence & Spa here 

• Tokaj Vineyards

Between spa breaks, we visited Hercegkút, 30 minutes from the hotel, to meet independent winemakers in an extraordinary setting. German emigrants settled here around 1750, creating unique underground cellars, now UNESCO-listed, to age their wines.

The Götz family produces a range of wines they present in these cellars. Their warm, genuine welcome shares their family history and Hungarian terroir. Sample six white wines from dry to sweet, the hallmark of the Tokaj region.

A truly beautiful place inspired by French cellar traditions, and a great way to discover Hungary’s terroir. Perfect for bringing back a few bottles as souvenirs.

➡️ Book your Tokaj vineyard tour here 

| Day 6: HORTOBÁGY & EGER

After one last luxurious night at Andrássy Résidence & Spa, we set off early for Hortobágy for a family-friendly activity.

• Hortobágy

This small town in the Great Hungarian Plain is often called the “Puszta,” describing the vast open prairies characteristic of this UNESCO World Heritage region for its cultural and natural importance. The national park preserves its original landscape shaped by grazing pastoralism. East of Hungary, it’s the westernmost part of the Asian steppes. The scenery and traditional attire reminded us of Mongolia, fitting, as the Magyar ancestors came from Central Asia to these plains, giving their name to the Hungarian people.

On an excursion, discover local traditions while touring the plains in horse-drawn carts. Witness breeding traditions with water buffalo, grey Hungarian cattle with long horns, horned sheep, and spectacular horse-training displays. A fun outing perfect for young children, with easy animal viewing from the open carts.

We would have preferred seeing the animals in the wild rather than enclosures, while practical, it detracts from authenticity. In hot summer over 30°C, the plains dry and animals stay near water. Spring, with its bird migrations (over 700 species), is ideal for visiting.

After the ride, stroll freely with the kids around the equestrian center to visit the horses in their stalls.

| Day 8 & 9: ESZTERGOM & TRIFLAFARM TRUFFLES

We head west to discover the Balaton lakeside and the bucolic countryside north of it. We stay in Dorog near Esztergom at a typical hotel halfway between Esztergom and Vasztély, where we visit Triflafarm the next day.

➡️ Book your stay at Pilisi Lovas Major Dorog here

This hotel/restaurant features a lovely garden, a great restaurant, and modern, traditionally styled wooden rooms for a warm atmosphere, a nice spot for the night.

• Esztergom

You can easily go to Esztergom to visit the St. Adalbert Basilica (Basilica of the Assumption), Hungary’s largest church. Its massive dome over 100 meters high and Neoclassical-Baroque elegance dominate the Danube from the hilltop.

Entry to the main basilica is free; visits to the crypt, dome, and treasury are paid.

➡️ Book your Esztergom excursion here 

• Triflafarm, a truffle lover’s experience

But the highlight of our visit is our love of truffles.

Like France and Italy, Hungary has suitable soils for truffles, wild or cultivated. However, under communism, truffle culture was neglected as it clashed with the regime’s ideology.

Knowledge was nearly lost, though the land remained. In recent years, truffle growers have relearned the craft, both wild foraging and cultivation. In this context, a producer couple launched Triflafarm in 2013, a unique project in Europe.

Spend a day on their 4-hectare farm learning the secrets of truffle production hidden from the public eye. In a charming Hungarian house with a terrace dining area, accompanied by a local guide, you’ll hunt truffles in the orchard with trained dogs, essential for finding them. It’s a convivial moment mixing technical insight and the thrill when the dog digs. We harvested about 500g ourselves, not bad for novices!

After the hunt, enjoy a three-course truffle menu, with some truffles better for savory dishes and others for desserts. A spectacular tasting for truffle lovers. We still remember gratefully having fresh truffles on the table to shave onto every dish, a real luxury!