Cologne | Discover Christmas markets the German way

The Christmas markets in Cologne were a real surprise! Renowned for their size and diversity, there is something for everyone: craft lovers, little ones, gay people, sailors, pirate fans, foodies, and decoration enthusiasts. Join us for two days in the heart of this small city.

Dear travelers, welcome to Germany. Christmas is approaching, and this year we have decided to take you to Cologne, pronounced “Köln” in German, to discover new Christmas markets after those in Alsace in 2017 and Prague in 2018. Open for a very short period, from November 25 to December 23, discover the city’s seven markets and their unique atmospheres. They are all located on the left bank of the Rhine, near the historic center of Cologne, and each one has its own identity. This is the first time I’ve found Christmas market stalls that are each more magical than the last, offering originality and unusual stands such as one where you can have your iris printed in large format or another selling giant matchboxes.

| KERSTMARKT – The Cathedral Christmas Market

Located on Roncalliplatz, the Kerstmarkt market faces Cologne Cathedral. It is one of Germany’s most iconic markets, with its huge 25-meter-high Christmas tree and string of lights hanging over the red-clad chalets, giving the impression of being under a starry sky. At the foot of the tree is a central stage where bands perform. The atmosphere is festive, and the culinary offerings are more varied than at other markets in the city, with more than 150 exhibitors waiting to welcome you. Don’t miss it, or its little brother located on a small square below with its illuminated wooden tower. One slight disappointment is the bird’s-eye view of this market: the photos you often see on social media are taken by drones!

✖️ Free admission to the cathedral and €5 per person for the dome of the tower
✖️ Opening hours for climbing the tower: November to December from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

| HEINZELS WINTERSPROOKJE – The “HEINZELS and its winter fairy tale” market

Located between Heumarkt Square and Alter Markt Square, this market is dedicated to fun and enchantment, reminiscent of Grimm’s fairy tales with its beautifully decorated wooden chalets. Here you will find a variety of crafts from all over Europe, as well as a magnificent Ferris wheel that looks like it came straight out of the 19th century. For winter sports enthusiasts, this is where you can enjoy the giant ice rink covering more than 2,400 square meters of Heumarkt Square, where ice shows and fairy tale-themed performances take place (see the Christmas market program for show times). The atmosphere is very family-friendly, and you can try your hand at Bavarian curling. Halfway between curling and pétanque (or rather palet breton), this sport seems like a lot of fun, provided you have enough people to play. This is certainly the busiest market in the city, so we recommend going early in the day to avoid the crowds. This market is often open until early January.

It is at this market that you will encounter the “Heinzelmännchen,” little elves who come at night to clean houses, but you mustn’t surprise them, or they will disappear forever. These little elves are hidden everywhere, on the roofs of chalets, on the ground, giving this market a wonderful charm and a lovely friendly atmosphere. So keep your eyes peeled and look everywhere!

| ENJELTJESMARKT – The Angels’ Market

Located in Neumarkt, this market is beautifully decorated and has a significant advantage: wider aisles covered with trees adorned with bright stars, allowing for a more leisurely stroll.
You will find various wooden chalets, all decorated around the theme, and a wider range of products to buy. We found some delicious Christmas cookies and a Christollen, also known as Weihnachtsstollen or simply Stollen. This is a traditional German cake with a long history: it is a bread made with dried and candied fruit, filled with almond paste, and is a staple of Christmas celebrations in Germany! Expect to pay around €30 for 1kg.

| HEAVEN – The pink Market

Dressed all in pink, this is undoubtedly the city’s most unusual market, located in the heart of the gay district between Schaafenstraße and Pilgrimstraße. To get there, simply cross the street and tram lines from the Angel Market. There, you’ll find pink and purple neon-lit stalls selling cheeky Christmas decorations such as mermaids with muscular male bodies and sex-shaped lollipops, all set to the backdrop of Mariah Carey’s “All I Want for Christmas Is You.” It’s worth a look for those who want a naughtier Christmas!

| NIKOLAUSDORF – Village of Saint Nicholas

It’s sure to win your heart with its unique, local atmosphere and memories of all the locals singing at the top of their lungs. Located at Rudolfplatz in the heart of Cologne, at the foot of the city’s medieval castle gates, this market is dedicated not to Santa Claus but to Saint Nicholas (Nikolaus), who is celebrated in Germany (and Alsace). The chalets resemble small half-timbered houses, and the narrow streets will make you feel like you’ve traveled back in time, where Nikolaus and his queens, perched on a roof, transport us into the magic of Christmas. Illuminations, light shows on the tower, and image projections envelop this market and its rustic stalls in light. Children will also be delighted to discover this world. Come and enjoy a glass of mulled wine (Glühwein) while listening to one of the bands performing there, and take the time to stroll around, sampling a meat skewer or a sweet treat such as the many pralines on offer.

| KERTSMARKT – The port market

A little further out of the way, at the foot of the chocolate museum, the Kertsmarkt and Drehbrücke market is no less charming. The white canvas tents may be less appealing, but the goods on offer at this market are interesting. It was here that Antoine found his pair of sheep wool mittens to get him through the winter. The two wooden stands where you can enjoy a glass of mulled wine are beautiful replicas of old galleons (armed sailing ships used as escorts for trade with European colonies), adding a certain charm to this “port” market.

| STADTGARTEN – A market in a beer garden

A very German atmosphere awaits you at this market, which is located away from the crowded markets in the city center. Situated in the Stadtgarten park on the edge of the Belgian quarter of the city, the market takes place in the usual Biergarten (literally meaning “beer garden”). People come here to enjoy a Bratwurst (sausage sandwich), have a drink with friends or family, and browse the market’s selection of food products, including sausages, pastries, honey, cheese, and much more. The atmosphere is different, warmer, and more indulgent, which alone makes it worth a visit. We recommend going early on Sunday morning to avoid the midday crowds.

| TASTE THE SPECIALTIES OF COLOGNE’S CHRISTMAS MARKETS

We love strolling through markets, but we have to admit that we don’t always find things to buy because the selection can seem a bit repetitive and sometimes even outdated. But German markets are full of a wide variety of products. That’s definitely what impressed us the most. Clothing, pretty Christmas decorations for all tastes, beeswax candles, lighting, trendy backpacks, culinary specialties, vinyl records, artistic creations, posters, books (admittedly in German)… you’ll find lots of little gift ideas.

For savory treats, don’t miss out on trying fried potato pancakes (kartoffelpuffer), Cologne mushrooms, Finnish braised salmon, hot chestnuts, pretzels, bread stuffed with melted cheese, and of course the sausage-based meat specialties that Germans are so fond of, which you can enjoy in a small roll. The half-meter meat skewer is also very popular, as is flammekueche. Finally, for those with a sweet tooth, we fell in love with christollens, German cakes made with marzipan and small pieces of candied fruit, as well as “Zimtsterne” star-shaped cookies made with hazelnut dough, and small vanilla crescent-shaped cookies called “vanillekipfer”. As for drinks, we naturally drank several glasses of excellent mulled wine in pretty ceramic or porcelain cups with a deposit. There’s no shortage of choice, so give in to temptation.

We drank a few beers, Kölsch, at Brauhaus Sion (Unter Taschenmacher 5-7) and also visited a rather good traditional German brewery, Haus Zims (Heumarkt 77).

|WHAT TO DO IN COLOGNE?

The city of Cologne was almost completely destroyed at the end of World War II as a result of bombing. The historical aspect is therefore quickly covered, but the city has been reborn thanks to its dynamism and now offers a wealth of contemporary architecture and other attractions.

1 – VISIT A MUSEUM

The city of Cologne is full of museums, 51 in total. So you’re sure to find one that suits you:

• Chocolate Museum
• Beer Museum (Kölsch, of course)
• Art museums, the most famous of which is undoubtedly the Ludwig Museum, located just behind the cathedral on the way to the Rhine.

But it was the Farina Cologne Water Museum that intrigued us, as we wanted to learn more about this famous cologne that our grandmothers loved so much and which contributed greatly to the city’s reputation. It is located a stone’s throw from the “Rathaus” tram stop in the historic building where Johann Marina Farina settled in the early 18th century. This Italian-born man, who had learned distillation techniques in Europe, chose to come to Cologne because the city was then a hub for goods in Europe, where he could find many plants to distill. And it was here that he created “Eau de Cologne,” which he named as such because French was then the international language, spoken in European royal courts and by the upper classes.

Eau de Cologne quickly became a success, positioning itself as a luxury product since the cost of a vial represented half the salary of a civil servant, a fortune in short! Although the museum may seem a little old-fashioned at first glance, it is interesting because it is run by a somewhat atypical guide who is worth the detour alone and will transport you back to the golden age of Eau de Cologne by explaining the history of this product. But shhh, we won’t tell you any more so you can enjoy the surprise.

Remember to book your tour in French with a “costumed” guide, as there are no self-guided tours.

✖️ Guided tour in costume: €9 per person

2 – VISIT THE DISTRICT « BELGISCHES VIERTEL »

The most interesting district in the city is undoubtedly the Belgisches Viertel. Located west of the historic center, it is a very lively neighborhood. It is centered around Habsburgerring Straße. You will find beautiful street art murals on Antwerpener Straße and Brusseler Straße, as well as renowned bakeries such as Merzenich (Hohenzollernring 26) and trendy cafés such as Woyton Café (Bismarckstraße 44), Il Barista, and the healthy café Spatz. There is also the StadtGarten beer garden where you can enjoy a beer, and neighborhood shops including the very friendly Schee concept store on Maastrichter Straße at the foot of St. Michael’s Church. The best thing to do is to lose yourself in its streets and keep your eyes open.

The most interesting part of the city is undoubtedly the “Belgisches Viertel” (Belgian Quarter). Located west of the historic center, it is a very lively neighborhood. It is centered around Habsburgerring Straße. Here you will find beautiful street art murals on Antwerpener Straße and Brusseler Straße, as well as renowned bakeries such as Merzenich (Hohenzollernring 26) and trendy cafés such as Woyton Café (Bismarckstraße 44), Il Barista, and the healthy café Spatz. There is also the StadtGarten beer garden where you can enjoy a beer, and neighborhood shops including the very friendly Schee concept store on Maastrichter Straße at the foot of St. Michael’s Church. The best thing to do is to lose yourself in the streets and keep your eyes open.

3 – EXPLORE COLOGNE BY E-SCOOTER

We discovered Segway tours during our trip to Croatia in Zagreb. It’s really fun once you get the hang of it. A Segway is a single-seater electric vehicle consisting of a platform with two parallel wheels on which the user stands and moves forward like an electric scooter. Here in Cologne, they offer the e-scooter, which is even more fun for exploring a city.

➡️ It’s the perfect combination of sightseeing and pure driving pleasure. Check availability and book this outing here.

4 – CRUISING ON THE RHINE

We wanted to discover the city from the Rhine. So we booked a ticket with the company KD for a two-hour trip. To be honest, the cruise was a disappointment. The service on board was very “mass tourism.” Tables were spread out throughout the room and there was a stage where rather poor shows were performed.

The main attraction is still being able to see the city by day and by night from the upper deck of the boat and enjoying beautiful views of the city lights once night falls. The cruise heads south, passing by the recently renovated dock district, which has a style that blends the old, the industrial era, and a more contemporary style, thanks in particular to the three Kranhaüser buildings, which are quite interesting.

➡️If you would like to take this 1- to 3-hour tour, you can book it by clicking on this link.

✖️ Several times are available, but I recommend taking the 3:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. cruise to see the city light up.

✖️ Cost of the cruise: between €10 and €15 per person, depending on the boat and type of cruise chosen.

✖️ Be punctual, as the boats depart on time!

5 – GUIDED TOUR FOR STREET ART LOVERS

For us, it’s becoming something of a habit to discover street art in the cities we visit because we love it so much. We did it in Chile, in Valparaiso, but also in Havana, Paris, New York… That’s why we invite you to discover the street art scene in Cologne on a bike ride through the trendy Belgian Quarter and the eccentric Ehrenfeld district. Let your guide take you to different areas and see works by international artists.

➡️ If you would like to discover this on a 3-hour guided tour with a German guide, you can book this tour by clicking on this link.

6 – BICYCLE RIDE ALONG THE RHINE RIVER

We didn’t have time to do it, but this cruise on the Rhine gave us a great idea. Why not take a bike ride along the Rhine? Stroll through the old docklands and discover the banks of one of Europe’s most iconic rivers—it must be wonderful. To rent bikes independently, click here.

You can also discover the most beautiful parts of Cologne on a 3-hour guided bike tour. Follow the 15 km route to visit the Rheinpark, the Hohenzollern Bridge, the Cologne Philharmonic Hall, and the famous cathedral.

➡️ If you would like to take this 3 hours bike tour in French by clicing on this link réservation 

7 – VISIT THE BREWERIES OF COLOGNE

You can’t leave Cologne without trying its local beer. Learn more about “Kölsch,” renowned as a light beer. Visit four breweries and discover the essential characteristics that make a beer worthy of this name.

➡️ If you would like to discover this on a 2-hour guided tour with a German guide, you can book this tour by clicking on this link. For €27 per person, you can enjoy a Kölsch beer in each of the four breweries and a “Kölsch herb liqueur” on the way to the last brewery. A great atmosphere is guaranteed!

8 – CULINARY TOUR OF COLOGNE

If you’re a foodie like us, we suggest discovering Cologne on a 3 hours walking tour. Enjoy 5 tastings and a small drink in selected international restaurants in the heart of Südstadt. Your German guide will tell you more about the culture, architecture, and history of the Severin district.

➡️  If you would like to take this 3 hours tour for €39 per person, accompanied by your guide, you can book it by clicking on this link.

9 – COLOGNE SEEN FROM ABOVE

If you want to impress your loved one, propose marriage, or are looking for an original gift idea, I suggest you take a flight over Cologne. The view from above must be so beautiful, especially over the bridge and the cathedral. Not bad, right? You’ll have your own headset for the flight so you can hear your pilot and all communications from the control tower. We did this during a flight over the lagoon in New Caledonia and it was magical!

➡️ If you would like to take this 1 hour private flight for €166 per person, accompanied by your guide, you can book this tour by clicking on this link.

| WHERE TO STAY IN COLOGNE

During our stay in Cologne, we tried out two hotels with two completely different styles and experiences.

• THE ART’OTEL HOTEL

Located on the banks of the Rhine,Art’Otel by Plaza hotel is a brand-new 4* hotel with a sleek, modern decor. The view from the rooms on the Rhine side is very atypical and pleasant, with a glass overhang giving you the impression of being suspended above the river. The rooms at this hotel are very spacious, bright and fairly quiet. All are well-equipped with flat-screen TVs, minibars, WiFi, coffee machines and tea and coffee-making facilities. Most feature bay windows, elegant paintings and minimalist design. Ask for the same room as us, namely the one facing the port market, just for the view and the night-time atmosphere.

The restaurant art’eat offers delicious cuisine based on fresh, locally-sourced produce, and serves a hearty, German-style breakfast every morning for those with a sweet tooth. At Christmas time, the restaurant is quite full, and tables are quickly snapped up.

Its central location means it’s often fully booked, as it’s right next to the harbor’s Christmas market, the Chocolate Museum and 500m from Heumarkt square. The hotel is within easy walking distance of many restaurants and Cologne’s historic center. If you’re travelling by car, the hotel also has a parking lot.

| HOW TO GET AROUND COLOGNE

✖️ The city is served by a network of bus and streetcar. We mainly got around on foot and only used the streetcar, buying a 48h pass for 18€/pers. You can buy it directly from a station at dedicated terminals. It couldn’t be easier! You can also buy the KölnCard to move around the city for 24 or 48 hours.

➡️ Click here to buy the KölnCard for €9/p and benefit from discounts of up to 50% on the city’s cultural, artistic and culinary attractions.

| GETTING TO COLOGNE BY TRAIN

If you live in Paris or northern France, it’s easy to reach the center of Cologne by train. By the way, Cologne station is quite pretty and very modern with its metal structures. It’s true that today, I try to prefer the train to the plane as much as possible and as soon as situations allow. It was the first time we’d taken the Thalys, the famous red train recognizable from afar. We found the train quite comfortable in terms of seating, the meals quite good quality and well-balanced, and the staff very welcoming. I understand better why Thalys was elected in 2019, customer service of the year.

✖️ Thalys connects Paris with the center of Cologne in just 3h14, making it the ideal means of transport. To give you an idea, Thalys ticket prices between Paris and Cologne start at :

• Christmas markets in Alsace
• Prague’s Christmas markets